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Dual Reality: cyclists and a culture of collective amnesia

Six months from now we’ll be 8,000 kilometers south of the equator somewhere on the South Island of New Zealand.  I imagine us gathered around a roaring campfire swapping tales with fellow cyclists.  Sooner or later the talk will turn to routes. “You guys biked all around Borneo?  Wow!  Must have been amazing.” “Yeah, pretty [...]

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Oh, the People You’ll Meet!

Most cycle tourists rank “Easy Interaction with Locals” as one of their top reasons for travelling by bicycle.  Whether it’s exuberant kids in Burundi cheering you up the mountainside, taciturn Mayans of the Guatemalan Highlands welcoming you into their humble adobe homes or an affable American offering you a cold coke on a hot summer’s [...]

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Malaysia Mix: ATM Annoyances, advice from the imam and more

Eric stepped out of the small supermarket scowling. “They don’t take Thai Baht,” Pretty normal, I decided, since we are, after all, in Malaysia. Normal, but annoying, since all we had was Thai Baht.  And a stash of US dollars, but those were meant for emergency purposes only. A growling stomach could hardly be interpreted [...]

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Tourism and Terrorism

“Aren’t you afraid of the bombs?” Cycling through Thailand’s deep south, this troubling enquiry was tossed out multiple times each day. Sure we were scared! Who wouldn’t be if they had bothered to read this warning from the US State Department: The far south of Thailand has been experiencing almost daily incidents of criminally and [...]

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