africa travelogue: updates from the saddle.

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Update 22 18 April 2008 India:Tamil Nadu & Kerala
A bit of brainwashing at a yoga ashram, fantastic rides through the tea plantations and forests of the Western Ghats and a return to suffering as South India's plains start to sizzle in the summer heat.

Update 21 8 January 2008 South Africa & Lesotho
Lots of interaction with the locals as we learn more about the challenges facing the Rainbow Nation. Tackling the many spectacular passes of the Mountain Kingdom of Lesotho left our legs aching and our bums burning but it is nevertheless one of the highlights of our entire trip.

Update 20 27 November 2007 South Africa
After 1 year, 5 months and 6 days we arrive in Cape Town at last! But is this really the end of the adventure? Find out more.

Update 19 08 November 2007 Namibia
Namibia is desert country and totally unsuitable for a cycing holiday. Maybe we should have heeded this advice from the travel experts at Lonely Planet.

Update 18 09 October 2007 Zambia, Zimbabwe and Botswana

This part of Africa is just one big national park with elephants wandering across the highway, giraffes mating by the roadside and hippos outside the tent waking us in the early hours of morning. We're feeling a little nostalgic for 'exotic' Africa but are nevertheless enjoying the comforts of 'modern' Africa.

Update 17 05 September 2007 Burundi, Tanzania and Malawi
Colorful locals and overloaded bikes in Burundi, a look at little-visited Western Tanzania and an overdose of relaxation on the shores of Lake Malawi.

Update 16 01 August 2007 Rwanda and Uganda
The 'Land of a Thousand Hills' and the 'Pearl of Africa' don't disappoint. Winding mountain roads flanked by patchworks of neat garden plots, rolling hills of verdant tea plantations, and spectacular crater lakes and towering volcanoes, you just can't beat these tiny East African countries for scenery. Our legs are weary by day's end, but it's a satisfying sort of fatigue.

Update 15 01 July 2007 Republic of Congo, DR Dongo and Europe
A wild train ride through a rebel-controlled zone brings us to Brazzavile. Fate brings us a flight to Europe and chaotic Congo brings us headaches and hassles. Year two is off to a shaky start.

Update 14 16 May 2007 Equatorial Guinea and Gabon
Back on the bikes in the heart of Africa! This is the tropics, folks, and downpours are daily in the steamy jungle. Roads turn to rivers, chains clog up and we wallow in the muck and mire. Perhaps it's time for a quick trip home to recuperate before the next leg of our journey.

Update 13 9 April 2007 Cameroon
This is our first taste of Central Africa and its steamy equatorial rain forests, volcanic highlands and bullying bureaucrats. After a minor mishap the pedaling comes to a halt and we find ourselves stuck in Bamenda while Eric recovers from a hard fall.

Update 12 6 March 2007 Nigeria
It may not be top on the list for most travelers, but you'll be hard-pressed to find kinder or friendlier people than the Nigerians. From kamikaze drivers on hectic highways to curious children on isolated pistes, there's never a dull moment in Nigeria.

Update 11 17 February 2007 Togo and Benin
These often overlooked countries are full of exciting places to discover. From the cocoa triangle of Togo to the stilt villages of Benin, this is a slice of Africa packed with diversity.

Update 10 30 January 2007 Burkina Faso and Ghana
We're rediscovering the joys of cycling as we conquer the hilly jungle region around Kumasi and speed along the smooth tarmac of Ghana's highways. Lots of touristy activities provide some welcome breaks from the pedaling.

Update 9 27 December 2006 Mali and Niger
Dusty roads and thorn-filed pistes, it's no surprise that Eric is up to 19 punctures.
The exotic Sahel at its best with colorful markets, camels and Tuareg nomads.

Update 8 22 November 2006 Guinea-Bissau, Guinea and Sierra Leone
Passing through numerous villages off the beaten track, discovering little visited Sierra Leone and more battles with rough roads. Another exciting month in West Africa.

Update 7 17 October 2006 Nouakchott, Mauritania to Ziguinchor, Senegal via the Gambia
Difficult travel as the rainy season in West Africa winds down, a look at village life along the banks of the Gambia River and lots of chats with the friendly locals.

Update 6 19 September 2006 Laayoune, Western Sahara to Nouakchott, Mauritania
A lonely highway stretching 2000 kilometers through dunes and stony hammada, a surprise midnight downpour in the desert, and lots of interesting characters eking out a living in an inhospitable climate.

Update 5 5 September 2006 Chefchaouen, Morocco to Tafraoute, Morocco
Grueling climbs in Morocco's mountains, overwhelming hospitality and discovering the exotic Maghreb in the souqs of Meknès.

Update 4 7 August 2006 Tui, Portugal to Chefchaouen, Morocco
Cruising down Portugal's windswept Atlantic coast, suffering under the scorching sun on the way to Seville and finally, amid much mayhem, arriving in Africa via the Spanish enclave of Ceuta.

Update3 22 July 2006 Le Puy, France to Tui, Portugal
Tours of some of the villages voted 'the most beautiful in France', playing pilgrim on the Camino de Santiago and an arduous journey to the end of the world at Fisterra, Galicia.

Update 2 15 June 2006 Obernai, France to Le Puy, France
Breaking in the Brooks saddles and some easy riding on the serene bicycle paths following the Rhine and its canals.

Update1 April/May 2006 Darmstadt, Germany
Pre-departure stress and buying sprees.