the end of the road
bike touring in central america
![The road comes to an end at the Darien. The road comes to an end at the Darien.](../Images_Two/Darien_Gap_Map2.gif)
The Darién Gap is notorious for its guerrillas and drug traffickers. Foolhardy tourists who venture in are likely to end up with a ransom on their head, kidnapping being a lucrative sideline for the FARC.
Cyclists have made it through. Ian Hibel managed the feat way back in the 70s--check out the video for a taste of what he endured. 'Cycling' the Darén Gap boiled down to bashing his way through a swamp. At least there wasn't the FARC to contend with back then.
Crossing the Darién Gap by bike is possible. But not something a predominately sane person would consider. Most cyclists on their way to Colombia hitch a ride on a boat. That's the adventurous way to cross continents. You fork over around $400 to a sea captain for a cramped cabin on a rickety ship, spend four days on the high seas, visit the San Blas Islands (or Kuna Ayala as they're now known ). Travelers rave about the picture-perfect Caribbean islands populated by the indigenous Kuna. For a couple of bucks, the locals will pose in their traditional garb and tourists take home pictures of exotic -looking people sporting colorful beads and hand-woven textiles.
Cheapskates fly to Colombia. Less than half the price of the boat ride, flying between Panama City and Cartegena takes just 1 hour and 20 minutes. Plus you get the free peanuts and coke.
Being the ultimate budget travelers that we are, naturally we' re flying. Plus, there's the fact that I personally find picture-perfect islands about as interesting as suburban strip malls. And I'm prone to sea-sickness. Or maybe it's just that I like to find my own adventure without it being bundled up in a tidy package tour. Or maybe I'm just all adventured-out. Anyway, we´re flying.
Fortunately, way back in 2001 in our former lives as free-spending backpackers, we checked out all the sights. This time we just sped through Costa Rica on the busy (but beautiful, really stunning in some parts) coastal highway.
Then it was on to Panama. Blaring music, street vendors, a few local drunks weaving around on a Sunday afternoon. Motorists honking and waving, kids shouting out greetings. Alive in a way that made you want to join in the fun.
![Checking out a colonial church. Checking out a colonial church.](../Images_Two/IMG_6083-church.jpg)
![Now it's on to South America. Now it's on to South America.](../Images_Two/IMG_6168-panama.jpg)
That's what we love about the road. Meeting all the slightly wacky individuals that we seem to attract.
Now it's time for a trip to one of the greatest engineering feats of the 20th century--the Panama Canal, of course. Then we'll be packing our bags and pedaling off to Tocumen Airport for a rather un-adventurous flight to Colombia. Or maybe I´ll take another look at Ian's video and reconsider overlanding it through the Darién.
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Around the World: Biking Central America-Part One
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