update 44: biking montana, idaho, washington and oregon
22 September 2009Total distance cycled: 61,966 kms/ 38,503 miles
goodbye again“A journey of a thousand miles must begin with
a single step.” – Lao
Tzu
With a long hug and a cheery 'See You!' to mom and dad, we sprinted down the hill and set off for the Pacific. I pedaled hard, wanting to squelch the sadness and lingering loneliness that comes from leaving loved ones. Saying goodbye to my parents proved to be more heart-wrenching at 42 than at 22.
controversy
We set up camp next to a Grizzly Adams look alike who'd found a clearing in the dense conifer forest. Our new friend--Mike was his real name--was a forest service worker out on his last fishing expedition before hibernating with his computer games for the winter. Mike had served in the US military and various covert missions overseas had led him to believe that the CIA was ruling the world, "there's nothing those guys don't have their hands in." An accomplished outdoorsman, Dave began telling tales of his trek through the Selway...with his pet WOLF. "A real gentle animal. God, I loved her. Very loyal." Then the conversation wandered to life at home with the wolf "Lobo was real protective, too. Once when my daughter was just a baby Lobo bounded into her crib and curled up around her because she thought my baby was in danger. It's instinct--just like Lobo was protecting one of her own pups."
not what you'd expect
Rain, right? In fact, Eastern Oregon is a land of rolling wheat fields and complex desert eco-systems. Yes, deserts. Some parts of Eastern Oregon receive fewer than 10 inches (250 mm) of rain yearly, classifying them as deserts. And Eastern Oregon's got wind, a whole lot of wind. Westerly winds. Headwinds that make you whine and complain. When the blowing persists for days on end, you're driven to throw tantrums and declare you're finished forever with cycling. But then you meet up with a nice family like the Frosts (mom, dad and two exceedingly polite teenagers) who serve up piping hot pizza when you're famished and everything's okay again.
The desert gradually gave way to temperate moss-covered rainforests as we wound our way along the spectacular Columbia River Gorge, the only sea-level route cutting its way through the Cascade Mountain Range. One evening we made a stop in the Hood River Valley, one the largest fruit-growing regions in America. As we sprawled out on the front steps of the General Store wolfing down a half gallon of Rocky Road ice cream, migrant workers sucked on their beers after a hard day in the fields. We caught snatches of their conversation as they sized up our bikes and gear. "Las bicicletas pesan mucho. Los gringos son locos." Those bicycles are heavy. The gringos are crazy. The men broke out in laughter and shook their heads at the absurdity of loading up a bike with all your possessions and traveling round the world.
cycling just doesn't get any better
We'd love to hear from you. What's your favorite cycling spot in America? Any places not to miss before we jump across the border? Ever met any crazy characters on the road? Please share, inspire and entertain. And check out the books below.

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biking in africa resources.
dealing with malaria:
what you must know before you
go
safe drinking water: how to beat the runs
healthcare in africa: practical advice from someone who's survived two bouts with malaria
travel insurance: make sure you're covered
safe drinking water: how to beat the runs
healthcare in africa: practical advice from someone who's survived two bouts with malaria
travel insurance: make sure you're covered
check out more photos from our trip
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