{"id":6243,"date":"2016-08-12T22:01:53","date_gmt":"2016-08-13T02:01:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=6243"},"modified":"2020-01-14T01:44:31","modified_gmt":"2020-01-14T06:44:31","slug":"idaho-hot-springs-route","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2016\/08\/idaho-hot-springs-route\/","title":{"rendered":"Idaho Hot Springs Route"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
\n

In 2014, Adventure Cycling<\/a> unveiled what promised to be one of America\u2019s most beautiful and challenging bicycles touring routes: the Idaho Hot Springs Mountain Biking Route<\/a>.<\/p>\n

The Idaho Hot Springs Mountain Bike Route guides riders over and through the breathtaking landscape of central Idaho. From blue ribbon trout streams to sub-alpine terrain and cozy mountain towns, riders will pass through some of the most spectacular country the West has to offer, with the opportunity to indulge in the highest concentration of soakable hot springs in North America.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

In late May, we biked over from Missoula with plans to tackle the route.<\/p>\n

What we didn\u2019t realize was that stubborn snow still covered the high, remote passes. \u00a0Our hopes were dashed early in the season but we returned in July after having bike around Eastern Oregon (no regrets\u2014Steens Mountain is stunning).<\/p>\n

My only regret is that when we returned for a second shot at the Idaho Hot Springs Route, logistical complications and time constraints meant we were only able to knock off the section from Boise counterclockwise to McCall.\u00a0 The whole ride has a high \u2018wow\u2019 factor and we didn\u2019t want to miss a single inch.<\/p>\n

The route is described as remote, with limited services.\u00a0 Most people purchase the Adventure Cycling maps, but with a limited budget, we decided to attempt the Hot Springs Route by following the Idaho Hot Springs GPS tracks files<\/a> easily downloaded on the extraordinarily useful Ride with GPS website.<\/p>\n

This was our first time relying solely on the Smartphone for navigation and I was apprehensive.\u00a0 Perhaps we\u2019d get hopelessly lost on some isolated forest service road and never find our way back to civilization.\u00a0 My concerns, it turns out, were completely unwarranted.\u00a0 Following the thin red line on my maps.me app worked a charm.<\/p>\n

If you ask me, following the smartphone GPS is actually easier (and definitely more accurate) than paper maps.\u00a0 But I still like my paper maps.\u00a0 They\u2019re fun to gaze at and dream big.<\/p>\n

The one thing missing was a daily route profile.\u00a0 Would have come in handy on day 2 out of Boise when we tackled what can only be described as a torturous trail up an unforgiving mountain.\u00a0 This was the notorious Phifer Creek \u2018Road.\u2019 Thoroughly exhausted, we were mostly bike-pushing by the top of the pass.\u00a0 The downhill was bliss and we set up camp outside the tiny settlement of Rocky Bar.\u00a0 It was then that I realized the essential Bear Spray had gone missing. It must have bounced out of my pannier pocket on the rough road. I\u2019ve got a healthy respect for wild animals.\u00a0 Grizzlies haven\u2019t been spotted in the area traversed by the Idaho Hot Springs loop, but you never know.\u00a0 Better safe than sorry as mom always said.<\/p>\n

Without the reassurance of the bear spray by my side, it was a fitful night\u2019s sleep.<\/p>\n

Did you hear that?\u00a0 I think it\u2019s a bear<\/i><\/p>\n

It\u2019s nothing.\u00a0 Go back to sleep, probably just some squirrels.<\/i><\/p>\n

It\u2019s a bear, I know it.\u00a0 Have you got the stick?<\/i><\/p>\n

The stick?\u00a0 To fight a bear with? Go back to sleep.<\/i><\/p>\n

\"Idaho
Day One as we picked up the Boise Spur and headed out towards Lucky Peak Reservoir.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

No hungry bears visited our camp that night and the following morning we cruised into Featherville and headed straight to friendly Cindie\u2019s Caf\u00e9 for some intel.\u00a0 A section of road past Baumgartner Hot Springs had been washed out.\u00a0 The road over Dollarhide Pass (the highest point on the Idaho Hot Springs Mountain Bike Route) was closed to cars but the caf\u00e9 owner thought we\u2019d be able to pass on our bikes.<\/p>\n

Another couple had come over the previous week so it was definitely do-able.\u00a0 We rode out to where the road had tumbled into the river to check out the damage.\u00a0 It didn\u2019t look good.\u00a0 A precarious-looking diversion was marked but, with our overloaded machines, we hesitated.\u00a0 We\u2019d have to schlep our bikes and gear over rough terrain for about a kilometer.\u00a0 Maybe more.<\/p>\n

I thought about the remote Dollar Hide Pass.\u00a0 We\u2019d be the only ones out there.\u00a0 The route was closed to cars.\u00a0 If we had the bad luck to stumble upon a grumpy bear, we\u2019d have nothing to defend ourselves with except some flimsy sticks we were using as replacement kickstands.<\/p>\n

We turned back.\u00a0 I let my fear get the best of me.<\/p>\n

\"Rocky
A relative metropolis on the Idaho Hot Springs Route.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Idaho
Legs still feeling a bit shaky after the previous evening’s pass.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Cafe
Super friendly service and route advice at Cindie’s Cafe in Featherville<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After a refreshing soak in Baumgartner Hot Springs, we pitched up in the dispersed camping area.\u00a0 Dispersed camping means free camping which is actually the same thing as a paid campsite minus the picnic table and with fewer neighbors, no generators and a better view.\u00a0 Idaho is awash with gorgeous spots to pitch your tent and that\u2019s one of the great joys of biking the Western US.<\/p>\n

With Dollarhide pass off the slate, we headed toward Ketchum on the main highway.\u00a0 Our diversion on pavement took us past the lovely Anderson Lake Reservoir and tiny Hill City.\u00a0 Scattered across rural America are many almost ghost towns.\u00a0 Places that once thrived and are now home to a few ramshackle buildings and boarded up storefronts.<\/p>\n

Much of the land in southern Idaho is parched semi-desert covered in silver-green sagebrush.\u00a0 This surprised me as I\u2019d always imagined Idaho to be similar to Western Montana with its pine-clad mountains.\u00a0 The vast empty spaces and big blue skies seemed to stretch on forever.<\/p>\n

\"camping
Free camping in Idaho. Nothing beats it.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Cycling<\/p>\n

\"collage<\/p>\n

Affluent Ketchum–home to Sun Valley, one of America\u2019s poshest ski resorts, is filled with buff retirees speeding around on titanium racing bikes.\u00a0 With our battered bicycles and scruffy appearance, many who saw us rolling along the cycle paths probably assumed we were homeless folks (which of course we are, technically).\u00a0 Our Ketchum Warm Showers host was off biking with his family in Japan and had generously opened up his home in spite of his absence.\u00a0 We hung out with the family cat for a few days and explored the area.<\/p>\n

Leaving Ketchum, we hopped on the Harriman Trail. \u00a0With the majestic Boulder Mountain Range as a backdrop, we wound our way through the Sawtooth National Recreation Area and up and over Galena Pass (8,701 ft\/ 2,652 meters). \u00a0Even with the gentle grade, I was feeling the climb by the time we hit the top.\u00a0 In the US, very few cyclists are heavily loaded.\u00a0 Even those traveling cross-country seem to manage with a fairly light load.\u00a0 Not a day passes without somebody pointing on that we\u2019re really loaded (Wow!\u00a0 You guys got a lot of stuff!).\u00a0 The trend these days is to go light.\u00a0 Clearly there are multiple advantages of leaving the 16-inch laptop, 15 kilos of food and full range of bike tools at home.\u00a0 But somehow we struggle to wean ourselves off all our stuff.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Biking
Biking the Harriman Trail near Ketchum, Idaho.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Wild camping options<\/h2>\n

Late in the afternoon, most cyclists\u2019 thoughts turn to finding a safe place to sleep.\u00a0 In the Western US, this is generally pretty simple.\u00a0 If you\u2019re on a budget, the best option is to pitch your tent on public Bureau of Land Management areas.<\/p>\n

In small towns, you can also try the city park or local church.\u00a0 Private landowners are another option. \u00a0Even though menacing \u2018No Trespassing, violators will be prosecuted\u2019 signs mar our countryside, many hospitable farmers and ranchers will readily offer space to pitch the tent (or perhaps even accommodate you in the spare room).<\/p>\n

Our plan that day was to pull off onto a side road and pitch our tent creek side.\u00a0 Then Todd and Nancie entered our lives.<\/p>\n

\u201cYou guys got a place to sleep tonight?\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cNot exactly,\u201d I explained.<\/p>\n

\u201cI\u2019m Todd.\u00a0 This is my wife, Nancie. You\u2019re welcome to spend the night at our place.\u00a0 We\u2019ve got a cabin a couple miles up the road.\u00a0 Hot shower, too.\u201d<\/p>\n

The shower cinched it for me.<\/p>\n

One night became two.\u00a0 It was 4th<\/sup> of July weekend and we tagged along to a potluck barbeque, outdoor concert and an afternoon of canoeing on a pretty little lake.<\/p>\n

Life was good and we were deeply grateful. In our experience, Americans are some of the most generous people in the world.\u00a0 Trust is easily granted and new friends quickly made.<\/p>\n

\"On
On the left, our wonderful Boise hosts, Dan and Kristi. On the right, our spontaneous Sawtooth Mountain hosts, Nancie and Todd.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Cycling the Sawtooths<\/h2>\n

The mighty Sawtooths are one of the most epic mountain ranges in America (world-class, really).\u00a0 We pushed the pedals past granite outcroppings and craggy peaks, through broad meadows and lush lodge-pole pine forests.\u00a0 The Sawtooths are nothing short of awe-inspiring.\u00a0 A place where you feel humbled by the purity and power of nature.<\/p>\n

Forest fires ahead<\/h2>\n

The Sawtooths are also a place prone to forest fires.\u00a0 On our way towards Warm Lake, we spotted thick black smoke in the distance.\u00a0 We flagged down a car and the driver confirmed what we suspected: the forest was burning.<\/p>\n

Cautious by nature, I wasn\u2019t certain we should continue.\u00a0 The roads we were riding were remote Forest Service tracks with little traffic.\u00a0 If the fire spread, I reasoned, we might become trapped.\u00a0 The driver reckoned we\u2019d be alright, so we pedaled on and set up camp.<\/p>\n

As we perched on a picnic table gobbling our evening meal of spaghetti with a bland industrial tomato sauce from the Dollar Store, a forest ranger sped into our camp.\u00a0 My first thought was that we\u2019d perturbed him by bending the rules and camping at a rest area.\u00a0 Thankfully, his visit was friendly.\u00a0 He just wanted to update us on the fire\u2019s status and let us know the road ahead might be closed.<\/p>\n

Fire advice<\/h2>\n

His advice was to set off early the following day before the fire \u2018woke up\u2019 after \u2018bedding down\u2019 for the night.\u00a0\u00a0 I\u2019d never thought of a fire \u2018going to sleep\u2019, but it made sense.\u00a0 Temps were down close to freezing at night and the fire obviously wouldn\u2019t be burning too hot with moisture in the air.<\/p>\n

We got around the danger area early the following day and I breathed a sigh of relief.\u00a0 My sense of adventure has its limits.<\/p>\n

The ride onto Warm Lake and then into McCall was just as gorgeous as the previous days.\u00a0 As we crested the final pass at Lick Creek Summit I felt a surge of satisfaction and pride.\u00a0 We\u2019d done it.\u00a0 Ridden our hefty rigs over a rough route designed for mountain bikes.\u00a0 The ride may have been punishing at times, but at that moment all I felt was a ripple of pleasure.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Fire approaching.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"
Warm Lake, Idaho.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Cycling
Setting off into the Sawtooths on 4th of July Weekend<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"collage<\/p>\n

\"\"
Enjoying a soak and the famous Sweet 16 Hot Springs near warm, Lake.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"
The final pass before we flew back down to McCall and popped in for a visit at Aaron and Kaori’s place.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"
Kaori, Aaron, and dog Daisy welcomed us back warmly. Strangers who had become friends (psst…join WarmShowers and you’ll make cool friends like these).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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