{"id":6199,"date":"2016-07-03T17:09:32","date_gmt":"2016-07-03T21:09:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=6199"},"modified":"2020-01-14T01:33:25","modified_gmt":"2020-01-14T06:33:25","slug":"biking-eastern-oregon-the-stunning-steens-mountain-loop","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2016\/07\/biking-eastern-oregon-the-stunning-steens-mountain-loop\/","title":{"rendered":"Biking Eastern Oregon: the Stunning Steens Mountain Loop"},"content":{"rendered":"
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\"Bicycle<\/p>\n

\u201cThe most stunning, unique route in Oregon.\u201d\u00a0<\/strong><\/em>Who\u2019d want to miss that?\u00a0 Not us.\u00a0 Bikepacking Oregon<\/a>\u2019s enthusiastic praise had us sold:<\/p>\n

Steens Mountain is one of the most spectacular places anywhere.\u00a0 The dramatic rise of this fault block mountain above the surrounding landscape and its impact on the topography, including the Alvord Desert and the Malhuer Wildlife Refuge, makes for an unforgettable experience.\u00a0 Starting in Frenchglen, you\u2019ll get to completely circumnavigate the mountain, adding in hot springs, our usual flavor of remote gravel riding, and a little taste of classic Americana as you pass through Fields. Other highlights along the route include strange geologic features like the Borax Lake, catching sight of wild horses up on Steens Mountain, and beautiful glacier carved valleys high up on the mountain loop road.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Old West Scenic Bikeway<\/h2>\n

Before hopping on the Steens Route, another little adventure awaited us: the back roads connector from the Old West Scenic Bikeway. With help from Jimi Soupir, our knowledgeable Warm Showers host in Prairie, we plotted a route using Forest Service Roads to get us near Burns, the jumping off point for the Steens Loop. Jimi is a former Forest Service employee so naturally he\u2019s a pro when it comes to remote route planning. \u00a0The route was beautiful (as is most of the American West) but not exactly easy. Grinding gravel up some fairly steep climbs was often rough going.\u00a0 And the roads were remote.\u00a0 Much more remote than anything we encountered on the actual Steens route.\u00a0 We were surprised at the number of tracks crisscrossing the forest.\u00a0 Our paper maps were useless but offline maps from Maps.me on my mobile phone saved us from getting hopelessly lost. The only folks we crossed paths with were a couple of sketchy looking dudes in a pickup truck, a kindly forest ranger and her dog, and an armed threesome from a place called the Cow Camp.\u00a0 We enquired if we might also camp alongside (we were running low on water and no streams in sight) and were flatly refused. \u201cNope.\u00a0 Not allowed.\u201d\u00a0 Got it.\u00a0 We moved on.\u00a0 No point messing around with inhospitable cowboys slinging pistols.<\/p>\n

\"camping
Our alternate camping spot after the less-than-friendly-folks at the Cow Camp sent us on our way. Probably best that way.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Finally we broke out of the forest and into sagebrush country. This is typical Eastern Oregon landscape.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

One of America’s most notorious towns<\/h2>\n

The town of Burns earned notoriety during the recent standoff with federal agents on the nearby Malheur Refuge<\/a>.\u00a0 Things got nasty and the community remains deeply scarred and divided. Much of Eastern Oregon has a wild, frontier feel to it.\u00a0 More along the lines of what you imagine in a place like Wyoming or Montana (I\u2019m talking EASTERN Montana\u2014not oh-so-cool Missoula).\u00a0 I\u2019d always associated Oregon with rain and radically progressive craft beer drinking NPR listening leftists.\u00a0 In Harney County, home of Steens Mountain, the only Democrats you\u2019re likely to run into are tourists riding bicycles. When we arrived in Burns, hot and smelly after our ride through the forest, we found vendors from a Gem and Rock Show setting up their rigs and wares in the city park.\u00a0 Perfect.\u00a0 We pitched up our tent alongside and had a free camping spot for the night.<\/p>\n

A visit from the sheriff<\/h2>\n

While sleeping in City Parks is entirely accepted (even encouraged) in communities along the popular TransAmerica cycling route<\/a>, we discovered not all states are keen on the practice.\u00a0 Just before arriving in Boise, the local sheriff shone a big bright light in our tent just after midnight. \u00a0Apparently sleeping in city parks is an offense, punishable by fine or imprisonment (the sick system in which poor people get locked up, lose their jobs and spiral downwards). Seeing we were harmless cyclists, the kindly Sheriff refrained from issuing a ticket and suggested we pitch the tent down under the bridge.\u00a0 \u201cUnder the bridge?\u201d I repeated. Seemed like the sort of place that scary sorts frequented to inject drugs and commit acts of vandalism and violence.\u00a0 I felt safe in the city park surrounded by tidy, well-kept suburban homes.\u00a0 That bridge though\u2026 \u201cYeah, normally camping isn\u2019t allowed down there, but I\u2019ll make an exception for you.\u201d \u201cYeah, thanks.\u00a0 I guess.\u201d<\/p>\n

Off to the High Desert<\/h2>\n

You\u2019re reading this blog post, so obviously we weren\u2019t shot and murdered by some bicycle hating psychopath. What we actually found under the bridge was nice riverside camping and a handful of friendly fisherman.\u00a0 So thanks for the upgrade, Sheriff! From Burns we set off into an empty expanse of High Desert country.\u00a0 Our first pit stop came at a place called The Narrows.\u00a0 It\u2019s just a little country store and RV Park but it\u2019s got one essential thing: shade!\u00a0 Something we\u2019d come to covet over the following days. Much of the Steen\u2019s Ride is blissfully flat, but there\u2019s a killer hill just out of The Narrows.\u00a0 Killer hill and, much worse, monstrous mosquitoes!\u00a0 Swarms of them feasting on my sweet blood.\u00a0 Being severely overloaded and slightly out of shape (the many comforts of riding in the developed world have caused a degree of laziness in us) I couldn\u2019t get much momentum going and couldn\u2019t escape the dreadful beasts until I crested the hill.\u00a0 The reprieve was short-lived.\u00a0 Back on the flats, mosquitoes buzzed and bit all the way to Frenchglen.<\/p>\n

Bicycle Touring through Classic America<\/h2>\n

Frenchglen is home to a friendly country store (they\u2019ve got red licorice at 5 cents a pop so I was happy)and the historic Frenchglen Hotel which dates back to 1923 ( alright, if you\u2019re European I know this won\u2019t impress you but that\u2019s old<\/i> in the American West.) Best of all, the Frenchglen Hotel<\/a> has a wonderful screened porch where you can enjoy the view and escape the biting monsters.\u00a0 Plus the friendly manager (#roadangel) has been known to bend the rules and allow touring cyclists use the facilities and camp out back. Early next morning I peeked out of the tent and caught a spectacular sunrise and another thousand bites.\u00a0 We packed up quickly and headed out of town.\u00a0 Within a few minutes of climbing, the mosquitoes had entirely disappeared.\u00a0 Seems these nuisances just congregate in the soggy wetlands.<\/p>\n

\"Frenchglen
The friendly Frenchglen Hotel–best pit stop on the Steens Mountain Loop.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Never a bad day when you can catch a spectacular sunrise–just wish it didn’t come accompanied by those pesky mosquitoes.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Day two was filled with spectacular vistas and many \u201coh my god…it\u2019s so beautiful moments.\u201d<\/p>\n

Cycling to Steens Mountain Summit<\/h2>\n

Sadly (or possibly happily) the actual road up Steens Mountain was still closed due to heavy snow pack.\u00a0 It\u2019s meant to be a spectacular ride up to a summit elevation of\u00a09,733 feet\u00a0(2,967 m). With all our superfluous stuff, that would have hurt. Bikepackers we are not.\u00a0 But we finally met one.\u00a0 Wesley, from Los Angeles.\u00a0 Looking sleek and ready for the Steens Summit with his light load.\u00a0 I\u2019m just a teeny bit envious until I remember how much I like my fluffy pillow and large laptop computer for video nights in the tent.<\/p>\n

\"bikepackers
Travelling light!\u00a0<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"steens
The mosquitoes suddenly disappeared once we got a little elevation out of Frenchglen.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"
Wide open spaces and not a soul in sight.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Friendly rancher who stopped for a chat.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Most cyclists on the Steens Route stop off for the night in a little place called Fields where they fill up on milkshakes and massive burgers.\u00a0 Being budget cyclists and schlepping enough food to last a week or more, we pushed on.\u00a0 Our map indicated a place called Andrews and a local rancher had assured us there was somebody living there, so we were confident we\u2019d come across a water source.\u00a0 Water, rather than terrain, is the real challenge on the route. Here\u2019s what Oregon Bikepacking has to say on the issue:<\/p>\n

Water is a serious issue between\u00a0Crystal Crane Hot Spring<\/a>\u00a0(mile 73.8<\/em>) and Fields (mile 178.2<\/em>), in that there are no reliable water sources between the two and you are likely to be dry camping somewhere in between.\u00a0 Do not be fooled by the \u201clakes\u201d on the east side of Steens Mountain.\u00a0 While several have water in them, none are drinkable.\u00a0 The water is highly alkaline and not potable regardless of any filtering\/treating.\u00a0 You will presumably need to carry 2 days of water from Crystal Crane Hot Springs.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Now, I\u2019m a huge fan of the Bikepacking Oregon<\/a> website.\u00a0 It\u2019s an incredibly useful resource with stunning images. But I don\u2019t quite agree with their thoughts regarding water access on the Steens route (possibly things have changed since they posted the info). There are at least three possibilities for water between Fields and Crystal Crane Hot Springs.\u00a0 In a pinch, you can get water at the converted school in Andrews, at the Alvord Hot Springs<\/a>, and even at mucky Mann Lake<\/a> (you\u2019ll need a good filter, but highly alkaline water won\u2019t kill you or even make you sick).<\/p>\n

A Ghost Town and an Artist<\/h2>\n

At the ghost town of Andrews, we had the great good fortune of meeting renowned artist John Simpkins<\/a> and his lovely poodle Phoebe.\u00a0 John actually uses the former Andrews School as his art studio. We were kindly showed where to fill water bottles and indicated a spot to pitch our tent for the night. We were grateful for the opportunity to top up on water in the middle of the desert and I asked John explicitly if he would mind other cyclists coming to get water from him at the school.\u00a0 He said he\u2019d be glad to help!\u00a0 So if you\u2019re in desperate need of water on the Steens Loop, John will gladly come to your aid.\u00a0 Another one of America\u2019s many road angels. The morning leaving Andrews was the most spectacular of all.\u00a0 The wind had whipped up and the sky was dark and brooding. The force of Mother Nature in such an extreme and harsh environment was palpable.\u00a0 We skirted around the Alvord Desert and finally made it back to the main highway and headed for Boise. So, the question remains\u2026is the Steens Mountain ride the most stunning, unique route in Oregon?\u00a0 Quite possibly, yes!<\/p>\n

\"cycling
Looking out over the empty expanse of Eastern Oregon’s Alvord Desert.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Oregon
The real thing: authentic Oregon outback cowboy out herding cows on the lonely ranchlands.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Yes,
Yes, you can drink the water.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Wild Balsamroot flowers galore on the Steens Mountain Loop.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u201cThe most stunning, unique route in Oregon.\u201d\u00a0Who\u2019d want to miss that?\u00a0 Not us.\u00a0 Bikepacking Oregon\u2019s enthusiastic praise had us sold: Steens Mountain is one of the most spectacular places anywhere.\u00a0 The dramatic rise of this fault block mountain above the<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":6201,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[49,71],"tags":[246,364,245],"yoast_head":"\nBiking Eastern Oregon: the Stunning Steens Mountain Loop - Worldbiking.info<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2016\/07\/biking-eastern-oregon-the-stunning-steens-mountain-loop\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Biking Eastern Oregon: the Stunning Steens Mountain Loop - 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