{"id":5908,"date":"2015-05-05T12:11:22","date_gmt":"2015-05-05T10:11:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=5908"},"modified":"2020-01-08T05:02:51","modified_gmt":"2020-01-08T10:02:51","slug":"incredible-india-cycling-the-northeast-part-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2015\/05\/incredible-india-cycling-the-northeast-part-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Incredible India: cycling the Northeast part 2"},"content":{"rendered":"

As much as India infuriates me, there\u2019s no denying the country lives up to its catchy marketing slogan: Incredible India.<\/h3>\n

Where else on earth can you find elephants loping down the highway?<\/p>\n

Nobody (except for silly foreign tourists) bats an eye.\u00a0 This is NORMAL.\u00a0 Of course you share the roads with elephants.\u00a0\u00a0 And sacred cows, scruffy dogs, playful goats and dim-witted water buffalo.\u00a0 This is India.\u00a0 Anything goes.<\/p>\n

\"cycling
Just another normal day in India.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Paparazzi<\/h3>\n

Elephants on highways don\u2019t merit a second glance, but foreigners on fully-loaded bikes? That\u2019s exciting.\u00a0 One evening in a grubby trading town in Assam we ended up spending the night at the local wedding hall.\u00a0 It was a shabby room above a Chinese restaurant littered with empty beer bottles.\u00a0 Naturally, a crowd gathered to watch us pitch the tent indoors.\u00a0 We went through our usual spiel showing off the nifty self-inflating mattresses and impressive high tech travel pillows.\u00a0 After we obligingly posed for photos, the last onlookers shuffled out the door.\u00a0 Peace and quiet at last.<\/p>\n

Eric scuttled down the hall for a bucket bath.\u00a0 I set out clearing away the beer bottles in an attempt to improve the depressing d\u00e9cor.<\/p>\n

Uninvited visitors<\/h3>\n

Bang. Bang. Bang.<\/p>\n

Not, not a gun.\u00a0 Just insistent rapping on the door.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhadya want?\u201d\u00a0 I mumbled.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe want to see you.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cGo away,\u201d I growled.\u201d<\/p>\n

(Sometimes a need for solitude supersedes good manners.)<\/p>\n

\u201cI am a teacher, madam, please open the door,\u201d came the reply in a polite, refined voice.<\/p>\n

Politeness prevails<\/h3>\n

I relented and in marched a dozen or so of the town\u2019s most distinguished citizens.\u00a0 How on earth had word of our arrival gotten out so quickly?<\/p>\n

The entourage had come bearing gifts: two traditional embroidered shawls.\u00a0 Immediately I regretted my rudeness.\u00a0 Fatigue was no excuse for bad manners.<\/p>\n

The mayor was there, as well as a couple of photographers with quite professional looking gear and someone who introduced himself as a journalist.<\/p>\n

Eric was in for a real surprise when he sauntered back to the room smelling of soap and shampoo.\u00a0 For an hour or so, we fielded questions and plastered on fake smiles for photo shoots with the dignitaries.\u00a0 Finally the thrill wore off and they departed, assuring us the whole crew would be back bright and early the following morning to see us off.<\/p>\n

\u201cGreat, see you then,\u201d I cooed as the last one slipped out of the wedding hall.<\/p>\n

In spite of the steamy climate, India is not a country of early birds.\u00a0 In cities, some shops don\u2019t open till 10 or even 11 AM.\u00a0 We were planning a 6 AM start and I was fairly certain our new friends would all be at home enjoying a snooze.<\/p>\n

Limelight<\/h3>\n

How wrong I was.<\/p>\n

The following morning they were back.\u00a0 This time with a camera crew from the local TV station in tow.<\/p>\n

The interviewer was a nervous chap who read off a series of important-sounding \u00a0questions.\u00a0 \u00a0We were even \u00a0required to comment on a recent case involving the killing of an endangered white rhinoceros.\u00a0 \u201cSimply appalling,\u201d I spat out like a talk show pundit.\u00a0 \u201cThis is a national disgrace and it is imperative that India crack down on poachers and strictly enforce environmental protection laws.\u201d\u00a0 The interviewer beamed.<\/p>\n

Word had gotten out in surrounding villages had heard about us and the morning was filled with photo requests and even a few scribbled autographs.<\/p>\n

I\u2019ve never been enthralled by stardom.\u00a0 Our five minutes of fame in Assam only reinforced my desire to remain ordinary and anonymous.<\/p>\n

\"Just
Just being an ordinary cyclist suddenly led to stardom in Assam. There were no regrets when our five minutes of fame came to an end.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

<\/h3>\n

Ordinary is Interesting<\/h3>\n

Experiencing the ordinary is actually what\u2019s most appealing about bike travel.\u00a0 Cycling is the perfect way to watch humanity at work and at play.\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0I love it.\u00a0 Witnessing life\u2019s daily struggles and small joys from the privileged vantage point of a cycle saddle never grows dull.<\/p>\n

Most Indians still survive by the sweat of their brow.\u00a0 Men pass their days herding sheep, goats or cows.\u00a0 They wrestle with ornery water buffalo as they plow their fields.\u00a0 Under an unforgiving sun, they dig ditches and plant rice.\u00a0 In towns and cities, emaciated old men pedal cycle rickshaws chock-full with wares or plump citizens from the middle class.<\/p>\n

Women haul water and fire wood and spend long hours perched on their haunches cooking over smoky fires.\u00a0 On the verdant tea gardens of Assam, ladies painstakingly pluck leaves at lightning speed.<\/p>\n

Children in crisp uniforms, girls with their hair neatly braided or in bows, can be seen trotting off to school.\u00a0 Late afternoons it\u2019s finally time to relax with a spirited game of cricket.<\/p>\n

In India, life is lived outdoors and there\u2019s always something to feed your senses.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Planting season in Mizoram, Northeast India. It’s hard, back-breaking work under an unforgiving sun.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"women
These women are the lucky ones! A running tap just outside of their homes. No pumping, no long walks.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
9 out of 10 Indian cows recommend Ortlieb panniers!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"cows
Some of the better looking specimen’s of India’s sacred cows. The ones that roam aimlessly in the streets are usually sick and diseased animals that have been discarded by their owners.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Cycling India’s main highways can be a dreadful experience. If you use Google maps it’s possible to take quieter roads like this one.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"woman
Tea estate workers have it pretty rough. Long hours. Low pay.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Fishermen on Majole Island in Assam.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Indian
These Mizo women are hauling rocks to be used in road construction. It’s a tough job, but they still managed a smile.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
More smiles on Majole Island (the world’s largest river island) from women hauling firewood for fuel.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Monsoon Menace<\/h3>\n

Try as we do, it\u2019s impossible to hit the seasons just right all the time.\u00a0 By April, the monsoon menace begins.\u00a0 The storms roll in at a ferocious speed and rain can pound down for hours.\u00a0 Then suddenly it\u2019s all over.\u00a0 Clouds clear and steam begins rising from the road as the sun peeks out.\u00a0 For a few glorious moments, the whole world is refreshed and rejuvenated and we pedal in perfect harmony.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Tripura and Mizoram both have great backroads with little traffic and beautiful views.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"muddy<\/p>\n

\"bicycle<\/p>\n

Lost Cyclists<\/h3>\n

Now that we\u2019ve teched -up with a GPS and smart phone, getting lost is mostly a thing of the past. Since you can almost always find somebody who speaks English, it\u2019s extra difficult to lose your way in India.<\/p>\n

Suceeding at the almost impossible<\/h3>\n

In spite of this, we somehow managed to cycle 30 kilometers on a dead end road through the mountains of Mizoram. We\u2019d have gone further if a storm hadn\u2019t rolled in.<\/p>\n

The remote village in which we found ourselves was just a cluster of homes stretched out along the road.\u00a0 In one little hut somebody hawked biscuits, batteries and betel, but that was about it.\u00a0 No market. No restaurant. And certainly no hotel.<\/p>\n

Fortunately the village school teacher offered us shelter in his simple home.\u00a0\u00a0 The teacher\u2019s home was by far the most luxurious structure in the village.\u00a0 The dwelling was made of sturdy wooden planks rather than metal sheets, mud or bamboo.\u00a0 There was a main room furnished with three plastic chairs and a low table plus a smaller room with a bed.\u00a0 The toilet and cooking area were below.<\/p>\n

Simple living<\/h3>\n

Water had to be fetched from a pump out back and the family\u2019s only electricity source was a small Chinese-made solar panel.\u00a0 This provided just enough power to charge a mobile phone and a tiny lamp.\u00a0 The entire village was off the grid, though there was one solar powered street lamp.\u00a0 If the government followed through on their promises, the entire village would be connected to the electrical grid by 2017.<\/p>\n

The teacher and his wife had just two children, but had taken in various cousins from poorer and even more remote villages.\u00a0 The home was always bustling with activity.\u00a0 \u00a0In an effort to carve out a slice of privacy, we pitched the tent in the front room.<\/p>\n

So much excitement<\/h3>\n

Neighbors darted in and out, sneaking a peek at the exotic visitors on bikes.\u00a0 They\u2019d never had a foreigner in their village before.\u00a0 Never even seen one pass by in a bus.\u00a0 Naturally, we piqued their curiosity.<\/p>\n

The village was made up entirely of people from the Bru tribe (also referred to as Reang). Later we would learn that the Bru were universally distrusted by the majority Mizo people.\u00a0 In 1996 and 2009, violent conflict broke out and most of the Bru fled to neighboring Tripura State where they were shuttled into camps and awarded the status of \u2018refugees.\u2019\u00a0 These clashes led to the creation of the Bru National Liberation Front, a terrorist organization that occasionally stirs up trouble.\u00a0 The latest episode was the kidnapping of a telecom executive and his driver last November.\u00a0 The incident took place near Mamit, not far from the Bru village where we spent the night.<\/p>\n

At the time of our visit, we knew nothing of this instability. Guidebooks portray Mizoram as an island of peace in the volatile northeast.\u00a0 For anyone planning to tour in the area, we advise sticking to the main roads.<\/p>\n

\"bru
This is the Bru village where we spent the night.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Everybody got up early to give us a warm send off and snap some photos.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Express Service<\/h3>\n

Daily storms had become the norm now and the hills were a lovely emerald green and lush with fresh vegetation.\u00a0 The rough and rocky roads in Mizoram were slippery after heavy rain and I took more than one nasty spill on a steep descent.\u00a0\u00a0 On Good Friday we arrived at the broad river that separates Mizoram from Tripura.\u00a0 A line of trucks was backed up for several miles.\u00a0 The bridge was down.\u00a0 A temporary bamboo bridge had been constructed so that pedestrians could cross, but that had washed away in the previous day\u2019s storm.\u00a0 It appeared we were stranded, unable to cross.<\/p>\n

Bridge down<\/h3>\n

The bridge\u2019s main structural framing was still intact but half of its planks were missing.\u00a0 \u00a0A few brave men inched their way across the skeletal structure.\u00a0 \u00a0Attempting the same feat with bikes and bags would surely result in dire consequences.<\/p>\n

Locals thought the bridge might be repaired my Monday or Tuesday of the following week.\u00a0 Mizoram is 90% Christian and everything would be shut down until after Easter.<\/p>\n

That didn\u2019t sit well with us.\u00a0 We began grumbling loudly and bickering with each other.\u00a0 Quickly a crowd formed to see what the ruckus was about.\u00a0 I\u2019m afraid we weren\u2019t being very good ambassadors for the West.\u00a0 We were annoyed, and showing it.<\/p>\n

Nobody else appeared perturbed by the inconvenience of the broken bridge.\u00a0 They accepted the situation without complaint.<\/p>\n

Foreigners in a funk<\/h3>\n

After so many years on the road, you\u2019d think we\u2019d have acquired the same equanimity.\u00a0 Instead, we got all riled up and railed on about inefficiency and the ridiculousness of the situation.<\/p>\n

Finally, a gentleman stepped forward and promised he\u2019d see the bridge was repaired before lunch.<\/p>\n

Fat chance, I thought.\u00a0 The guy had a disheveled appearance and didn\u2019t strike me as someone having the power or authority to get things done.<\/p>\n

How wrong I was. Within half an hour a crew of laborers had been assembled and metal planks were being bolted down.\u00a0 By noon, we were on the other side of the river sitting down to lunch in Tripura.<\/p>\n

How is this possible?<\/h3>\n

The express bridge repairs boggled my mind. If we hadn\u2019t shown up would the bridge have remained in disrepair?\u00a0\u00a0 What had prompted them to work so fast?\u00a0 Were they just trying to placate two disgruntled foreign tourists?\u00a0 Had the mysterious man concocted some story to get things moving?<\/p>\n

Grateful<\/h3>\n

I\u2019ll never know the answers.\u00a0 All I know is that a random road angel swept in and solved our busted bridge predicament on Good Friday 2015.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s not the first time a total stranger has come to our rescue.\u00a0 Far \u00a0from it.\u00a0 From Northeast India to Nigeria, Nicaragua to New Zealand, people across the planet have lent us a helping hand. \u00a0\u00a0For this, we are deeply grateful.<\/p>\n

Perhaps a \u00a0more truthful slogan would be India: infuriating and incredible!<\/p>\n

\"\"
The metal planks had been bolted down and it was now safe to cross. Good Friday turned out to be a fine day indeed!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"India
Incredible country. Incredible smiles.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"The
The beautiful women of the Bru tribe of Mizoram.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
The flatter areas of Assam are full of two-wheeled itinerant salesmen.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"A
A special thanks to all the wonderful folks from Couchsurfing, and various schools and churches, who kindly hosted us during our stay in the Northeast. Your hospitality and kindness amazed us.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"bicycle
Next up it’s BANGLADESH where we got even more double takes!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

As much as India infuriates me, there\u2019s no denying the country lives up to its catchy marketing slogan: Incredible India. Where else on earth can you find elephants loping down the highway? 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