{"id":5879,"date":"2015-03-22T15:11:26","date_gmt":"2015-03-22T14:11:26","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=5879"},"modified":"2020-01-07T05:14:39","modified_gmt":"2020-01-07T10:14:39","slug":"myanmar-bicycle-touring","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2015\/03\/myanmar-bicycle-touring\/","title":{"rendered":"Second-rate spies and more surprises"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\n

Myanmar Bicycle Touring<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n

There he was again.  His bright red Adidas baseball cap giving him away.  It was an unfortunate choice in attire for a third-rate spy.<\/p>\n

Trailing two slow moving cyclists must grow tiresome.  Especially when said cyclists stop frequently to snap photos, dash behind a tree to attend to nature\u2019s call or just pull off on the side of the road for an after lunch siesta.  Duty as a Myanmar  tourist spy certainly involved none of the thrills and intrigue of a James Bond adventure.<\/p>\n

Just leave us alone<\/h2>\n

For the pursued i.e. us<\/i>, being followed, even if it was by a benign gentleman on a motorbike, became simply a bother. Being watched is always uncomfortable. It feels invasive to have your every move scrutinized.   Plus it\u2019s hard to stifle the urge to hurry up and stop wasting the spy\u2019s time. The poor guy was probably counting down the kilometers till we pedaled out of his district so some other hapless agent could take over.<\/p>\n

Putting up with a few minor hassles was part and parcel of cycling Myanmar.  It wasn\u2019t as if we were being trailed 24\/7.  But since we\u2019d set off on the backroads west of Irrawaddy, these suspicious men on motorbikes were materializing more and more often.<\/p>\n

Under scrutiny<\/h2>\n

Some were bold, buzzing by and announcing, \u201cI am Myanmar police.  Follow me.\u201d  Most were friendly, smiling and waving back when greeted.  A couple were borderline nasty, like the officer who caught us camping and whipped out a copy of Myanmar\u2019s laws pertaining to foreign visitors and threatened us with expulsion if we didn\u2019t move on quickly.  Naturally, we complied.  Double fast.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Bike Burma and you’ll often feel as if you’ve stepped back a century or two.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Crawling its way out of decades of military oppression, these things were to be expected in Myanmar.  The real surprise was how unaffected the population appeared.  People were friendly, not fearful.  They spoke openly about their distaste for the current regime.<\/p>\n

Special treatment<\/h2>\n

As foreign visitors we were indulged and doted upon.  Strangers pressed small gifts in our hands\u2014a cold bottle of water, exotic fruits, packets of cookies and sweets.  Sometimes a fellow guest at a restaurant would pick up the tab or the owner would refuse payment and insist we eat for free. We were spoiled.<\/p>\n

It was hard to wrap our heads around how genuinely happy the Burmese people appeared.  Even those charged with the most menial of tasks, sweepers and rock breakers for example, went about their business with a smile.  People were overwhelmingly positive wherever we went. Early mornings we\u2019d pedal alongside groups of kids in impeccable uniforms making their way to school.  The girls mostly giggled but the most courageous boy would often strike up a conversation.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhat is your name?\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cWhat is your country?\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cWhere are you go?\u201d<\/p>\n

Off the beaten tracks<\/h2>\n

For many, this was likely their first interaction with a foreigner.  Myanmar may be overwhelmed by visitors these days, but not where we went.  Locals did double takes when we cruised by on our bikes.  Once when we spent the night in the community hall of a tiny village near the Indian border, the head man set up a receiving area for us outdoors so all the villagers could come by and have a look.  I normally object to the zoo animal treatment, but the Burmese are so sweet and sincere it\u2019s hard to be annoyed for long.<\/p>\n

Traditional life<\/h2>\n

Villages are simple but tidy.  Women tend flower patches.  Men build bamboo fences around their plots of land to keep out wandering goats and cows. Some folks have relatively fancy homes made of concrete bricks.  Most live in more basic structures of thatch and bamboo.  Running water is mostly unheard of in rural areas.<\/p>\n

Luckier families will have a bore hole and a hand operated pump in their back yard.  Others will have to make a trip to the village well.   Forget about getting electricity from the main electrical grid.<\/p>\n

Monasteries will usually have a generator that\u2019s switched on for a few hours each evening.  Surprisingly, in front of many huts small solar panels can be found.  These are used to charge mobile phones and lights.  Most cooking is still down over open fires. Gas bottles are a luxury item.<\/p>\n

Bath time!<\/h2>\n

Bathing is mostly done down at the river.  It\u2019s a family affair and no one is shy or self-conscious.  Of course you can\u2019t romp around in your birthday suit in front of the entire village.  You\u2019re expected to wear a longyi\u2014the sarong-like garment common in Myanmar.  Usually a local woman would lend me one. River bathing is generally refreshing.  I don\u2019t mind unless a crowd gathers to gawk at my odd sun burned skin or observe the strange western practice of female leg shaving.  Mostly people are polite.<\/p>\n

Yum!!<\/h2>\n

Hungry cyclists will rejoice when they sit down to a meal in Myanmar.  You\u2019ll be served at least a half dozen tiny dishes of tasty beans, spicy vegetables, fresh salads and meats for those that want them.  The cost?  Generally not more than dollar.<\/p>\n

Budget Friendly<\/h2>\n

Speaking of finances, Myanmar turned out to be one of our least expensive countries yet.  We spent just $200 in 28 days.  Now that\u2019s cheap living.<\/p>\n

If you\u2019ve done any research into biking Burma, then you\u2019ve probably heard about the astronomical cost of accommodation.  Word has it that in touristy spots, a room that goes for $10 in Thailand will go for $30 in Myanmar.  Ouch.<\/p>\n

Luckily, we ended up spending just three nights in local guesthouses for a total cost of just $18.<\/p>\n

We successfully wild camped on three occasions, three nights were spent in Yangon with a Warm Showers host, two nights in villages with the approval of the headman and the rest of the time we were welcomed by the wonderful monks of Myanmar.<\/p>\n

Managing on a tight budget did mean we missed most of the main tourist attractions (including Bagan).  Still, biking Myanmar was an immensely rewarding experience.  We rode through parts of the country almost untouched by tourism.  Roads were quiet, the scenery was at times spectacular and the welcome we received was nothing short of exuberant.  Don\u2019t delay; this is the time to bike Burma.  Go now before the masses realize there\u2019s more to the country than Inle Lake and the temples of Bagan.<\/p>\n

\n

Myanmar Bicycle Touring Route<\/h2>\n

Here’s the route we followed:<\/p>\n

Myawaddy \u2013 Kawkareik- KyondoVillage -Hpa-An-<\/p>\n

Thaton- Kyaikto \u2013Bago-Yangon- -Satcot \u2013Danu Pyu -Za Lun -Hinthada \u2013 Dambhi-Myokwyn-Ingapu-Mezaligon-Tugyi-Myanaung-Kyangin-Batye -Okshitpin \u2013Mindon-Padan -Singaung \u2013Segu-Pwinbyu- Salin \u2013Seikphyu-Seikphyu-Pauk – Kyauk Tu \u2013Tilin-Gangaw-Kalemyo \u2013 Kamphat- Tamu<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

And now a few of our favorite Myanmar cycle touring photos!<\/h2>\n

<\/p>\n