{"id":5864,"date":"2015-02-22T06:19:00","date_gmt":"2015-02-22T05:19:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=5864"},"modified":"2020-01-05T15:04:41","modified_gmt":"2020-01-05T20:04:41","slug":"cycling-myanmar","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2015\/02\/cycling-myanmar\/","title":{"rendered":"Cycling Myanmar"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"
Meeting monks begging for alms is a daily occurrence cycling in Myanmar.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Approaching voices in the distance sent a shudder up my spine.\u00a0 Eric and I fell into an immediate silence.\u00a0 It was our first night in Myanmar.\u00a0 We were wild camping. And suddenly we weren\u2019t alone.<\/p>\n

Finding a suitable spot to pitch the tent hadn\u2019t been easy.\u00a0 Small settlements of bamboo huts and simple dwellings \u00a0lined the highway. Empty space was consumed by military facilities.\u00a0 We hadn\u2019t expected that.\u00a0 After rolling out of town we\u2019d hoped to find farmland and forest.\u00a0 Near sunset, we\u2019d followed a dusty track off the main highway and stumbled upon what looked to be a rural school under construction.\u00a0 Perfect.\u00a0 A stand of fruit trees blocked the view from the road.\u00a0 The half-built walls of the school would keep us well- hidden should anyone happen to pass by.\u00a0 Yes, it was a good spot.\u00a0 One in which we were unlikely to be discovered.<\/p>\n

\"\"
We were fairly confident nobody would discover us when we pitched our tent in this school building under construction. The spot was way off the main road and accessed only by a narrow foot path.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

But now the steady click clack of footsteps approaching pierced the cool night air.\u00a0 Then they stopped.\u00a0 There was just one individual, I gathered, barking into his mobile phone.\u00a0 The man was just a few feet away, on the other side of one of the partially completed walls.\u00a0 He finished his conversation, took a few more puffs on his cigarette and then nearly walked right on top of us.<\/p>\n

\u201cMingala Ba,\u201d we called out cheerily.\u00a0 \u201cJust having dinner, would you like to join us?\u201d<\/p>\n

The uniformed man grinned and broke out into a fit of laughter. He was obviously unfazed by the sudden appearance of two foreigners sitting in the pitch black night hunched over plates of steaming cauliflower curry.<\/p>\n

\u201cHello brother.\u00a0 Hello sister,\u201d he said.\u00a0 \u201cWelcome.\u00a0 Welcome to my country.\u201d<\/p>\n

A strong smell of whisky permeated the air.\u00a0 The soldier was a happy drunk and, thankfully, unarmed.<\/p>\n

It was his duty, he explained, to guard the school building.\u00a0 But we could stay and camp.\u00a0 No problem, sister, he assured me.<\/p>\n

10 minutes later as I washed up the dinner dishes a military jeep came screeching to a halt.\u00a0\u00a0 Right.\u00a0 No problem.\u00a0 I couldn\u2019t blame the soldier.\u00a0 He\u2019d be a fool not to report the presence of two foreigners.\u00a0\u00a0 The country is gradually opening up, but visitors still face certain restrictions.\u00a0 One archaic and notoriously annoying law requires that foreigners stay at officially registered hotels and guesthouses. \u00a0\u00a0Inexpensive local guesthouses are generally off-limits without specific authorization by the immigration police.\u00a0 Camping is strictly forbidden, as is staying in the homes of local citizens.\u00a0\u00a0 The country is ruled by a bunch of spoilsports.<\/p>\n

Totally Illegal<\/h2>\n

Wild camping was risky.\u00a0 We knew that.\u00a0 Poke around the internet a bit and you\u2019ll come across plenty of stories of hapless cyclists discovered camping in Myanmar.\u00a0 \u00a0Most are swiftly moved on by local authorities.\u00a0 They were, like us, breaking the law.<\/p>\n

Would that be our fate?\u00a0 Would we be compelled to pack up in the dark and cycle the treacherous highway until we reached a town with official tourist lodging?\u00a0 Or, worse yet, be slapped with a fine for illegal camping?\u00a0 A tinge of regret washed over me.\u00a0 Why hadn\u2019t we just registered at the official guesthouse in Kawkereik and paid the ridiculously inflated price for the tiny cell that passed for lodging?<\/p>\n

A visit from THE MAJOR<\/h3>\n

A polite gentleman introducing himself as Major such and such (I was too anxious to note his name) informed us that we had pitched our tent on a military installation.\u00a0 \u00a0\u201cBut this is a school,\u201d I protested.<\/p>\n

Yes, madam,\u201d he conceded.\u00a0 \u201cIt is indeed a school.\u00a0 A military school.\u00a0 Our battalion headquarters are just over there,\u201d he said, motioning off into what I\u2019d mistaken as some sort of orchard.<\/p>\n

\u201cI regret to inform you that camping here is quite impossible,\u201d the major continued. \u201cMy men will be happy to assist you in returning to the town of Kawkareik.\u00a0 There we can assure your safety and you will spend the night comfortably indoors.\u201d<\/p>\n

It was all very logical.<\/p>\n

Had I been cycling alone, surely I\u2019d have acquiesced.\u00a0 \u201cYes, of course, sir,\u201d I\u2019d have muttered.\u00a0 \u201cSo sorry to cause you any inconvenience.\u00a0 Of course a guesthouse is much safer and more convenient.\u00a0 Thank you so much for looking after my welfare.\u201d<\/p>\n

Keep on Trying<\/h3>\n

Eric, on the other hand, wasn\u2019t ready to concede defeat so easily.\u00a0 \u201cSir, as you can see my wife is very tired.\u201d\u00a0 (I did my best to look weak and exhausted, slumping my shoulders and forcing out a prolonged yawn.)\u00a0 The Major might take pity on us and change his mind.\u00a0 Rules could be bent.\u00a0 Particularly by a powerful man such as The Major.<\/em><\/p>\n

The Major nodded in understanding.\u00a0 I amped up my poor, pitiful look, wincing a bit from my aching back.\u00a0 \u00a0He was clearly mulling over our situation.\u00a0 \u00a0Hospitality runs thick in the Burmese blood.\u00a0 Finally the officer relented, but with one condition: we must stay put in the tent.\u00a0 No wandering about.\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0The soldier would assure our safety.<\/p>\n

Eric and I each let out a gentle sigh of relief, thanked The Major profusely and dove into the tent, fearful the kind officer would change his mind.<\/p>\n

We could hardly believe our luck!\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0In the morning we awoke to find two soldiers keeping guard and a smattering of villagers slumbering nearby.\u00a0 We\u2019d slept like babies and hadn\u2019t heard a peep from our neighbors.<\/p>\n

\"\"
The Burmese love bicycles! (Or more likely they just haven’t got the cash for a snazzy scooter) Early morning the road is floodedwith giggling children pedaling off to school, villagers heading to the fields and all sorts of folks on overloaded machines hawking their wares. It’s a wonderful ambiance where a foreigner with 4 packed panniers is made to feel like just one of the crowd.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Rush hour in rural Myanmar. My kind of commute.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Much of Myanmar is blissfully flat.\u00a0 After crossing the border from Mae Sot, Thailand, we\u2019d had a 600 meter climb, but the word on the internet is that we could expect easy conditions almost all the way to the Indian border.\u00a0 I was thrilled.\u00a0 Over the past year, we\u2019d had enough steep climbs to last a lifetime.<\/p>\n

The first day in the country, I was struck by the unruliness of Myanmar\u2019s roads.\u00a0 Massively overloaded trucks lumbered by as motorbikes darted between.\u00a0 Ox carts, cycle rickshaws and itinerant hawkers completed the chaos.\u00a0 The road over the mountain was a rocky rutted mess, so narrow vehicles alternated days traveling in a single direction.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Our first (and possibly worst) day of cycling in Myanmar. Worst road in any case.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We rode 5 days to reach Yangon.\u00a0 Roads were often narrow and busy.\u00a0\u00a0 Trucks and busses whizzed pass with what felt like just inches to spare.\u00a0 To be honest, I didn\u2019t much like the cycling.\u00a0 It was stressful and unpleasant.\u00a0\u00a0 But that would change, just one day out of Yangon when we discovered Myanmar\u2019s quiet backroads on the western side of the Irrawaddy.<\/p>\n

It took us awhile to warm up to the cycling, but the people of Myanmar we fell in love with right from the start–glowing smiles, heartfelt\u00a0 greetings and genuine curiosity and interest.\u00a0 Long years of relative isolation have left the Burmese hungry for interaction with outsiders.\u00a0\u00a0 Conversations quickly turned towards politics.\u00a0 Locals no longer fear repercussions for speaking out about their desire for increased democracy.<\/p>\n

After our first tricky night camping, we decided to try staying at monasteries.\u00a0 \u00a0This, to our great surprise, worked wonderfully (most of the time).<\/p>\n

Temples Galore<\/h2>\n

Myanmar must have the highest per capita number of Buddhist temples in the entire world. Travelers to this country are regularly afflicted by temple fatigue.\u00a0 Even the scruffiest village boasts a sparkling golden structure and an army of saffron-robed monks ready to tend to the people\u2019s spiritual needs.<\/p>\n

Soon we realized it was best to bide our time until dusk and rock up to a monastery in an out-of-the way place.\u00a0 The monks always welcomed us warmly. \u00a0Often someone spoke English.\u00a0 Everyone always understood the universal sign for sleeping. \u00a0\u00a0The gracious monks acted as if having a tourist to stay was the most natural thing in the world.\u00a0 This reassured us.\u00a0 The last thing in the world we wanted was to get someone in trouble for offering us hospitality and kindness.\u00a0 Sometimes village authorities or courteous officers from the local police or would stop by and take down our passport details.\u00a0 In more remote places, no one was the wiser to our stay with the monks.\u00a0 We arrived late, left at sunrise and that was that.\u00a0 The monks had fun admiring our bikes (as always, the bells were a hit), enjoyed checking out photos on the computer, and had a good time practicing their English.\u00a0 We got a taste of Myanmar off the tourist track.<\/p>\n

City Life<\/h2>\n

We loved Yangon.\u00a0 Crumbling colonial buildings stand in a charming state of decay.\u00a0 Buddhist and Hindu temples brush up next to churches and mosques.\u00a0 Fast food outlets and trendy cafes are popping up next to bustling traditional markets and there\u2019s a feeling of hopeful optimism in the air.<\/p>\n

Three days was just enough time to wander around the city, arrange permits for the India border crossing (we highly recommend Exotic Tours\u2014just $50 per person rather than the hefty $100 fee charged by Seven Diamonds) and hang out with Alister and Jess, our outstanding hosts from Warm Showers.<\/p>\n

After Yangon, the real fun started.\u00a0 We slipped off the main highway and discovered plenty of shady roads connecting small towns and villages where few foreigners visit.\u00a0 More on that next time!<\/p>\n

\"\"
One of many stays at rural monasteries in Myanmar. The building we’re posing in front of is a kitchen\/dining area. We pitched our tent right inside on the bamboo boards. Bathing was under the cover of darkness next to a big tank out back. The toilet was of the pit variety-tidy and didn’t smell a bit. The Burmese could teach the Chinese a thing or two in that regard.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
To be honest, scenery is rarely of the ‘oh-my-god-this-is-so-beautiful kind. This is one of the prettier spots, the karst formations near HapAn.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Myanmar hasn’t quite caught up with the 21st century. Teams of oxen and water buffalo still so much of the work and tractors are something of a rarity. Outside of urban centers, electricity is provided by creaky generators that run just a couple hours per day. Mobile phones, however, are ubiquitous. Let’s just hope internet catches on soon.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
People are curious. Incredibly curious. But in a nice, respectful way. Nobody stops to gawk as if we’re zoo animals.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
It really is the amazing people of Myanmar that make the country so special.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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