{"id":5768,"date":"2014-10-16T02:09:29","date_gmt":"2014-10-16T00:09:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=5768"},"modified":"2020-01-05T10:20:13","modified_gmt":"2020-01-05T15:20:13","slug":"tibet-for-foreigners-part-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2014\/10\/tibet-for-foreigners-part-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Tibet for Foreigners: Part 2"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"
Time for some fun!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Whoosh, whoosh, whoosh all\u00a0 the way down the mountain for 15 odd kilometers.<\/p>\n

Ok maybe it was more like bump, curse, bump.\u00a0 The rock-strewn Daxuenshan Pass road was rough, and we maxed out at around 8 kms an hour.\u00a0 Still, it was fun to finally be going DOWN \u00a0after such an arduous ride up.<\/p>\n

The valley below was heavily cultivated and dotted with stately Tibetan homes made of rammed earth. \u00a0\u00a0I\u2019d imagined a massive feast in the Ranwu, first town we encountered– but alas there wasn\u2019t much to be had in either the dusty shop or dark, dank village restaurant.<\/p>\n

After an unsatisfying \u00a0bag of obnoxiously sweet industrial cupcakes, we were on our way: destination Xiangcheng.<\/p>\n

At an altitude of around 2,800 meters, the sun was as intense as that of the Sahara or the Australian outback.\u00a0 Soon it was time to start peeling off the layers.\u00a0 It felt good not to be cold.<\/p>\n

Our bikes and bodies had performed admirably on the demanding \u00a0Daxuenshan Pass.\u00a0 We were in high spirits, and ready to take on the many epic climbs that lay ahead.<\/p>\n

\"\"
The beautiful Tibetan homes surrounded by tidy agricultural plots.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Cowboy hats are an essential part of the look for Tibetan men.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

And then, just as we were sprinting up the last hill into Xiangcheng, disaster struck.\u00a0 The makeshift headset failed.\u00a0 The steering was shot and I could barely control the bike. \u00a0I ended up pushing the last few hundred meters into town.<\/p>\n

What to do?\u00a0 Well, fill our growling stomachs for starters and then track town a cheap hotel and hit the shower.<\/p>\n

Xiangcheng is a largish town that appears to be caught up in an economic boom.\u00a0 Hotels and housing projects are sprouting up and the center features a glitzy square with Las Vegas-style lighting.\u00a0 You\u2019d think such a place would boast at least one bike shop.\u00a0 Not a chance.<\/p>\n

Eric made the rounds to the various car mechanics in town, hoping one of them might be able to miraculously bring the headset back to life.\u00a0 All in vain.<\/p>\n

The closest major city certain to have a bike shop, Chengdu, was a grueling 30-hour bus ride away. \u00a0Roundtrip seemed an excessive amount of travel for a bike repair. \u00a0Shipping sounded better. We contacted the friendly and helpful guys at Natookes Bike Shop<\/a>.\u00a0 They could probably track down the necessary part and have it sent.<\/p>\n

Hmph.\u00a0 Hanging around in our grubby hotel (with its shared toilet facilities in which someone seemed to have always just taken a crap with having the courtesy of flushing away the evidence) waiting for a part to arrive seemed equally unappealing.\u00a0 And we DEFINITELY didn\u2019t want to give up and bus it all the way to Chengdu and miss the mountains we\u2019d been dreaming of for so long.<\/p>\n

As I pondered our dilemma and searched for a solution on the Internet, Eric slipped out to tinker with my bike.<\/p>\n

Up and running again<\/h2>\n

An hour or so later he reappeared.\u00a0 \u201cTake it for a spin and see if it\u2019s ride-able.\u201d<\/p>\n

I complied.\u00a0 The steering was stiff and choppy, but I could maneuver the aging Koga. That\u2019s all that counted.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019ll do,\u201d was my verdict.<\/p>\n

The next morning we rolled out of town in a thick fog and steady drizzle.\u00a0 Two big passes, the highest at 4,728 meters, and a couple hundred kilometers separated us from the Tibetan town of Litang.<\/p>\n

The sub-optimal steering didn\u2019t bother me too much.\u00a0 Any bike that\u2019s endured 155,000 kilometers of \u00a0fully-loaded riding develops a few rattles and shakes.\u00a0 I\u2019m used to the gears not quite shifting as they should and squeezing really, REALLY hard on the brakes to bring the bike to a halt (sometimes I even resort to that elementary school trick of dragging my feet on the ground).<\/p>\n

Time to admit defeat!<\/h2>\n

But just 30 kilometers out of Xiangcheng the steering completely gave out. \u00a0Nearly impossible to ride on flat roads and utterly dangerous on a descent.\u00a0 \u00a0Resurrecting the bike roadside was out of the question.\u00a0 We admitted defeat and decided to hitch a ride towards Litang, hoping for the best.<\/p>\n

A fresh-faced Tibetan truck driver and his pretty young wife were the first ones to offer us a lift.\u00a0 We all squeezed into the brightly decorated cab of the truck and attempted communication.\u00a0 They both broke out into broad smiles when I recognized a photo of the Panchen Lama.\u00a0 (The Chinese government bans the display of images of the Dalai Lama.)<\/p>\n

Our driver was cautious (by local standards) and took the switchbacks with care, blasting his horn to announce his presence as he edged around blind curves.\u00a0 He even drove extra slow while texting.<\/p>\n

This first pass was not too spectacular, and the weather was lousy.\u00a0 We felt only a slight pinch of sadness that we weren\u2019t doing it self-propelled.<\/p>\n

We were dumped off at a crossroads in Sangdui, midway to Litang.\u00a0 After wobbling up the highway a bit we came across a large group of novice monks tossing around a basketball.\u00a0 They motioned for us to continue up the road to their monastery.\u00a0 It was a beautiful collection of ancient stone buildings tucked away beneath the mountains.\u00a0 An older monk came out to greet us and eventually we were invited to spend the night.\u00a0\u00a0 This surprised me as I understood the government keeps close tabs on Tibetan monks and frowns on them getting too close to foreigners (who might fill their heads with ideas of democracy and an independent Tibet).<\/p>\n

\"\"
The silver-lining of a bike breakdown–a stay with the monks in Sangdui.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The wood burning stove was fired up in a small cottage and we frittered away a lovely afternoon in our cozy surroundings.<\/p>\n

The next morning we were back on the highway attempting to hitch a ride over Tuer pass and into Litang.\u00a0 Our opportunity came when a bus pulled over and disgorged its passengers for a roadside toilet stop.<\/p>\n

Eric negotiated a ride with the driver and we were on our way.\u00a0 The morning was clear, Tuer Pass was gorgeous and our disappointment at missing the pass quite complete.<\/p>\n

\"\"
We most certainly should have been cycling down Tuer Pass instead of seeing it through the window of a bus.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
The grasslands surrounding Litang are prime yak country. The white tents of nomadic herders dot the countryside.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Getting high<\/h2>\n

At just over 4,000 meters, Litang is one of the highest cities in the world (400 meters higher than Lhasa).\u00a0 Many important Tibetan figures, including the 7th<\/sup> and 10th<\/sup> Dalai Lamas, hail from this remote city with a sub-arctic climate.<\/p>\n

We were both in rather foul moods when we arrived.\u00a0 Eric was peeved about being overcharged by the unscrupulous bus driver and I was annoyed with my Koga for letting me down when I most needed her.<\/p>\n

In all our years on the bike this is only the second time we\u2019d had to resort to a bus (the first time was Christmas Eve in Patagonia when we were stranded in the middle of nowhere fighting a violent headwind and couldn\u2019t bear the thought of spending the holiday in the sticks).<\/p>\n

After settling into a nice clean room (excrement-free toilet down the hall) in a small hotel run by a Tibetan family,we directed our attention towards the offending headset.<\/p>\n

Litang was a scruffy town, but larger than Xiangcheng.\u00a0\u00a0 It\u2019 also on the main Sichuan-Tibet highway, meaning hundreds of Chinese cyclists pass through on their way to Lhasa (foreigners, of course, aren\u2019t permitted to travel any further up the highway into the Tibetan Autonomous Region (TAR).<\/p>\n

With all those cyclists, we reasoned, Litang, just had to have a bike shop.\u00a0 Our ride through the mountains, after all, hinged on tracking down a headset.<\/p>\n

A change of luck<\/h2>\n

Whether it\u2019s good karma (we recently stopped to help a guy push out his vehicle after he got stuck on a muddy road) or just dumb luck, Eric managed to unearth the exact part we needed.\u00a0 Turns out \u00a0Litang\u2019s got a bike mechanic in a tiny workshop on the edge of town.<\/p>\n

YIPPPEEE!\u00a0 We were good to go.<\/p>\n

\"\"
A monks catching a few rays in the intense late afternoon sun.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Big skies and open spaces on the Tibet-Sichuan Highway.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Some
Some of the beautiful people we crossed paths with.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"Some
Some fellow cyclists from Quebec travelling in the opposite direction. This part of China is popular with long-distance cyclists coming from Central Asia<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Ahead lies one of the most demanding stretches of the eastern Tibet route. We’ll have more than one mishap, but let me save that story for next time.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Whoosh, whoosh, whoosh all\u00a0 the way down the mountain for 15 odd kilometers. Ok maybe it was more like bump, curse, bump.\u00a0 The rock-strewn Daxuenshan Pass road was rough, and we maxed out at around 8 kms an hour.\u00a0 Still,<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5783,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[95,49],"tags":[216,25,217],"yoast_head":"\nTibet for Foreigners: Part 2 - Worldbiking.info<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2014\/10\/tibet-for-foreigners-part-2\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Tibet for Foreigners: Part 2 - Worldbiking.info\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Whoosh, whoosh, whoosh all\u00a0 the way down the mountain for 15 odd kilometers. 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