{"id":5750,"date":"2014-10-13T10:48:59","date_gmt":"2014-10-13T08:48:59","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=5750"},"modified":"2020-01-05T07:40:10","modified_gmt":"2020-01-05T12:40:10","slug":"tibet-for-foreigners-part-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2014\/10\/tibet-for-foreigners-part-1\/","title":{"rendered":"Tibet for Foreigners: Part 1"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"
A splash of color in Shangri-La. These ladies are gathering for an evening of folk dancing on the town square.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Independent Tibet travel for foreigners has been officially off-limits for years.\u00a0 The occasional intrepid cyclist does manage to sneak in, but most who try it get booted out by the ever-vigilant officers of the PSB (Public Security Bureau).<\/p>\n

Unwilling to risk potential lock up in a Chinese prison, we opted for the next best thing to an actual ride to Lhasa : a tour in Sichuan\u2019s Tibetan regions.<\/p>\n

Cyclists are starting to carve out a well-worn trail from Zhongdian(Shangri-La),to \u00a0Xiang Cheng, Litang, Yajiang, Danba, Xiaojin and on to Chengdu.<\/p>\n

Adventure cycling…Chinese style<\/h2>\n

It\u2019s a demanding route. \u00a0\u00a0The road winds its way up one 4,000 + meter pass, only to dip down into a steep and narrow gorge before rising up again for another trek over a mountain top.\u00a0 This cycle repeats itself for around 1,200 kilometers.<\/p>\n

The high altitude valleys are inhabited almost exclusively by Tibetans.\u00a0 Prayer flags flutter from the roofs of their lavish multi-storey trapezoidal homes.\u00a0 Old folks tending yaks give a cheery wave as we trundle past and call out a friendly \u201cTashi Deleg!\u201d<\/p>\n

Towns tend to be a mix of Han Chinese (many relatively new to the region, encouraged by their government to resettle in the less populated regions of western China) and Tibetans (who have lived there for centuries).\u00a0 With the Chinese middle-class mushrooming, tourism is taking off in this part of the country.\u00a0 We had the unfortunate luck of touring the mountains during Golden Week, China\u2019s seven day autumn break from the daily grind.<\/p>\n

Happy families in shiny SUVs tear through the mountains as if they were being pursued by a gang of dangerous Mafiosos. \u00a0\u00a0This, apparently, is their idea of a relaxing holiday.<\/p>\n

Suffice to say we had a few tense moments when impatient drivers didn\u2019t like the speed at which we cleared the way for them.<\/p>\n

With high demand for hotel rooms, prices can double during Golden Week.\u00a0 You know what that means.\u00a0 We spent a lot of nippy nights in the tent.<\/p>\n

Bicycle troubles (again)!<\/h2>\n

But I get ahead of myself.\u00a0 Bike issues nearly brought the tour to a screeching halt before we \u00a0conquered even the first pass out of Shangri-La.<\/p>\n

It all hinged on my headset.\u00a0 The cartridge somehow opened up and the bearings came out.\u00a0 That meant my steering was shot.\u00a0 Normally, one would simply replace the cartridge.\u00a0 Problem was, there was none to be found in Shangri-La (paradise it wasn\u2019t).<\/p>\n

In the end, a local mechanic jury-rigged a solution.\u00a0 It held up over the bone-jaring Daxuenshan Pass and I limped into Xiancheng, barely able to control the bike.<\/p>\n

Here\u2019s part 1 in pictures of our tales from Touring Tibet for Foreigners.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Shangri-La Rooftops. Sadly, much of the old town burned to the ground in a recent fire. Tourism is way down and the economy is suffering.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
You can still hike up to what locals claim is the world’s largest prayer wheel and soak in the Tibetan flavor of the town.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
This is the bustling market in Shangri-La (Zhongdian). We had several days puttering around town trying to sort out the headset issue and stocking up on provisions. We ended up stuffing our panniers with a head of cauliflower, some eggplants, boiled eggs tomatoes, garlic, onions, 1 kilo of honey, a jar of peanut butter, several packets of oats, raisins, instant ramen, milk powder, bread and some apples. Ever since some long stints in Africa with meager food options, I’m vigilant about being well-stocked with sustenance.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Markets in China have got to be the best in the world. Amazing selection and dirt cheap. A good-sized cauliflower goes for about 6 yuan ($1) and you can grab a couple of eggplants for about 3 yuan ($.50).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"This
This is superdog! He tagged along for a whopping 55 kilometers all the way up and over the first pass out of Shangri La. He actually had to wait for us a few times because we were so slow with those bursting panniers. I thought doggy would turn around and run home at the top of the pass. Not a chance. He was obviously having too much fun on his big outing. He sprinted down the mountain with us and appeared to have no intention of losing our scent. As much as I wanted to adopt him (I think he’s probably just a highway dog with no loving family to look after him) I knew that was impractical. Finally we convinced a passing motorist travellnig in the opposite direction to return Superdog to the spot where we encountered him. If any other cyclists spot him, let us know.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
This is the second pass and the one I was really, REALLY worried about. It’s a triple top (3 mini-passes in one go) with the highest point at 4,487 meters. Naturally, I was worried about the altitude. But what really makes Duxuenshan tough is the state of the road. It’s really rough. Just a bed of massive rocks in some parts. Plus when we passed, it had been raining every day for the past week.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Who should we meet on our way up to the second top but German solo cyclist Heike Pirngruber, better known as the PushBikeGirl (www.pushbikegirl.com). After just a short chat we had to be on our way–dusk was approaching and the outlook for camping options didn’t seem promising in either direction.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
There was a magical late afternoon sky and suddenly I didn’t want the ride to come to an end.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"
Amazing views of the jagged peaks beyond. A humbling landscape that reminds us of the insignificance of our own existence.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"After
After zooming down from the second top for around 15 kilometers we finally settled on a camping spot. Not a great one, mind you, but we were happy to have a small patch of land on which to pitch the tent.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
The next morning we were back pedaling on our way to the third and final top.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
I was truly ecstatic to make it up the final pass. My worst fears did not come to pass. Neither of us fell ill due to the altitude and we survived a frigid night in the tent at around 4,0000 meters. And we were able to tackle the passes in spite of all the sh*t we’re lugging around (those two extra tires and the spare rim really are not essential). \u00a0I finally had the feeling we might actually make it through the mountains all the way to Chengdu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\n

More photos and tales from Tibet for Foreigners coming soon.<\/h3>\n

Follow along on Facebook<\/a> and Twitter<\/a> for the latest news about bicycle touring in China and the Tibetan Plateau.<\/h3>\n

<\/h3>\n

<\/h3>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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