{"id":5519,"date":"2014-07-05T09:38:07","date_gmt":"2014-07-05T07:38:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=5519"},"modified":"2020-01-05T02:46:15","modified_gmt":"2020-01-05T07:46:15","slug":"the-good-the-bad-and-the-downright-baffling","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2014\/07\/the-good-the-bad-and-the-downright-baffling\/","title":{"rendered":"The Good, the Bad and the Downright Baffling"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/14575497325_e62146f460_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\"><\/p>\n<p>Almost six months ago we rolled off the Pelni from Malaysia and set out to circumnavigate Sulawesi. We survived that (but just barely) and went on to bike the length of Java (which turned out to be much better than expected).<\/p>\n<p>After my whirlwind trip to Montana and Eric\u2019s stay in Jakarta, we rambled on to Sumatra.<\/p>\n<p>Our expectations were high. This was mostly fuelled by stunning images from Mark Watson. Through Mark\u2019s eyes, Sumatra appeared romantic and remote&#8230;a place of twisting mountain roads and ramshackle villages.<\/p>\n<p>I wouldn\u2019t go so far as to say Sumatra has been a major disappointment. Maybe just a little bit of a letdown. I rack this up to a couple of things: our route and Ramadhan. Clearly the best cycling is through the mountains on the least frequented roads. We sealed our fate one sweltering afternoon in the junction town of Tapan. Weary of the tropical heat and more than a few monumental hills, we wimped out and took the easy option: a relatively flat stretch of coastal road.<\/p>\n<h2>Regrets?<\/h2>\n<p>Do we have regrets? YES. Of course, I say that as I sit in air-conditioned luxury at the comfortable home of a couchsurfer. Had we actually done the climb up to 1,800 meters, I might now think otherwise.<\/p>\n<p>And then there\u2019s the challenge of keeping your belly full during Ramadhan. Sumatra\u2019s sizeable Christian population is focused in the far north, and we\u2019ve yet to see a single church on the island. EVERYONE seems to be fasting. You\u2019re not even supposed to drink water\u2014I was once chastised when caught doing so.<\/p>\n<p>Luckily, we\u2019ve stumbled across a few restaurant owners who are willing to let things slide for foreigners. As long as the curtains are drawn, hidden from prying eyes, we can tuck into a Nasi Goreng.<\/p>\n<p>Sleep is another concern. Normally, the five daily calls to prayer are hardly an intrusion. I actually enjoy the ritual of waking up at 4:45 to the sound of the muezzin. Ramadhan is another story. In some small villages, prayers and sermons are blasted out of loud speakers nearly all night long! Once, the only reprieve came between midnight and 2 AM.<\/p>\n<p>As you can surely imagine, cycle touring on just two hours of sleep is about as fun as riding into a Patagonian headwind. This is our second time cycling Indonesia during Ramadhan and&#8211; trust me&#8211; we won\u2019t make the same mistake a third time.<\/p>\n<p>Dumai and the ferry to the Malaysian city of Melaka lie just 200 kilometers to the northeast. I guess it\u2019s time for an Indonesia wrap-up.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5526\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5526\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5526\" src=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/final-5282-reduced.jpg\" alt=\"These rubber plantation workers really hammed it up when I took this shot.  They seemed genuinely honored at having so much attention from a foreigner.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/final-5282-reduced.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/final-5282-reduced-500x333.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5526\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">These rubber plantation workers really hammed it up when I took this shot. They seemed genuinely honored at having so much attention from a foreigner. &nbsp;Something tells me things will be a bit different in Malaysia.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2>The Good<\/h2>\n<p><strong>The locals.<\/strong> No doubt about it, Indonesians are some of the friendliest folks on earth. When you\u2019re really at the end of your rope, somebody will pull over and offer you a cold drink, show up with a plate of fruit at the door of the school where you\u2019re staying &nbsp;or insist on helping you push your bike up one of Sulawesi\u2019s killer hills.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Something for Everybody.<\/strong> Indonesia may straddle the equator, but it\u2019s got much more to offer than tropical rainforests and picture-perfect beaches. Being a country dominated by volcanoes means there are plenty of mountains to cool off in and test your fortitude and endurance.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Sleep Easy<\/strong>. You\u2019ll never really have to fret over finding a place to sleep in Indonesia. The local school is always our first stop for accommodation. We love being able to roll in the bikes and spread out all our stuff. Churches, fire stations, health centers (Puskesmas) and friendly families are also excellent options. But don\u2019t worry, if hotels are more your style, you\u2019ll find plenty of those, too.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Sudah Mandi?<\/strong> \u201cHave you bathed yet?\u201d is regular small talk in Indonesia. Most locals bathe at least three times daily and are shocked by dirty foreigners who just wash up at the end of the day. In such a hot and sweaty climate there\u2019s nothing better than getting the grime off.<\/p>\n<p>Places to bathe are plentiful. You can shower at the Pertamina gas station, after lunch at the tiny roadside restaurant or even by the side of the road at strategically placed outdoor showers.<\/p>\n<p>Better yet, you can join the locals for a communal bath in the river. Just be sure to take along your sarong.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5528\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5528\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5528\" src=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/final-5236-reduced.jpg\" alt=\"Couldn't be more beautiful.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/final-5236-reduced.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/final-5236-reduced-500x281.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5528\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Couldn&#8217;t be more beautiful.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2>The Bad<\/h2>\n<p><strong>So many people.<\/strong> <strong>And they\u2019re mobile.<\/strong> Indonesia\u2019s average population density is 134 people per square kilometer (347 per sq mi), 79th in the world. Java, the world&#8217;s most populous island, has a population density of 940 people per square kilometer (2,435 per sq mile).<\/p>\n<p>By comparison, Montana\u2014my home state\u2014has an average population density of 2.65 people per square kilometer (6.86 per sq mile).<\/p>\n<p>Searching for solitude in Indonesia is like trying to find a restaurant open for lunch during Ramadan in Aceh (Indonesia\u2019s most conservative province and a place where Sharia law is in effect). It\u2019s futile.<\/p>\n<p>What\u2019s more, Indonesians love to cruise around on their scooters. Bands of young people race around town and think nothing of chasing down foreigners in hope of nabbing a photo together (which will quickly make its way to Facebook).<\/p>\n<p><strong>My mouth is on fire.<\/strong> Much Indonesian food (particularly Padang style) is doused with chilies. Reaching for water only spreads the fire. With bulging eyes, profuse sweating and a smattering of curses, Eric was able to manage the peppery concoctions. I, on the other hand, had to stick to fried rice with explicit <em>Tidak Pedas<\/em> instructions (not spicy) for most of my meals.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Cigarette Nation.<\/strong> If, like me, you find cigarettes repulsive and exposure to second hand smoke cause for mild outrage, get ready to be annoyed in Indonesia. It seems almost every man and boy over the age of 13 has got a cigarette dangling from his lips. There\u2019s really no sense in getting riled up because everybody\u2019s doing it.<\/p>\n<p><strong>&nbsp;Sauna Cycling.<\/strong> Let\u2019s face it, oppressive heat brings out the surly and sluggish side in all of us. Sea breezes help to cool things off.&nbsp; But only in the highlands will you really come across ideal cycling conditions.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5532\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-5532\" style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5532\" src=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/final-5345reduced1.jpg\" alt=\"Young people congregate on bridges to smoke, flirt and have a laugh.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"682\" srcset=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/final-5345reduced1.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/07\/final-5345reduced1-500x333.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-5532\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Young people congregate on bridges to smoke, flirt and have a laugh.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2>The Baffling<\/h2>\n<p>Travel is supposed to be all about embracing other customs and traditions. But some aspects of Indonesian culture continue to baffle and bewilder me.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Shine a light on me<\/strong>. Based on our own highly unscientific study, 98% of all Indonesians sleep with the lights on. I\u2019ve come across people in peaceful slumber directly underneath bright fluorescent lights. Indonesian homes and buildings all have an open ventilation space above the doorway so you know when the lights are on. Locals actually become concerned when we turn the lights off to sleep. Often someone bursts through the door and flips the switch, flooding the room in light.<\/p>\n<p>They\u2019ll listen patiently and nod in agreement as you explain that you like to sleep in darkness. But deep down you know they think you\u2019re just really, really weird.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The wind has entered my body. <em>Masuk Angin<\/em>.<\/strong> When Indonesians feel slightly unwell, they blame it on Masuk Angin. The idea is that exposure to a draft and has made them sick.<\/p>\n<p>Why does that matter? Well, first off in means that most villagers don\u2019t use fans. It\u2019s not that they can\u2019t afford one (after all, they\u2019ve all got mobile phones and motorbikes). The air stirred up by the fan, they believe, will surely cause <em>masuk angin<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p>Having that \u2018meaningful cultural exchange\u2019 at the home of the village chief will undoubtedly entail sitting around sweating and swatting mosquitoes all night long.<\/p>\n<p><strong>We love you, Bule!<\/strong> Indonesians seems to truly have affection for foreigners (or bule as we\u2019re known&#8211;which literally translates into \u2018albino\u2019). Or maybe it\u2019s just <em>bule<\/em> on bicycles that they like so much. We\u2019re dirty and smelly and often a tad grumpy at the end of a long day. In spite of this, we\u2019re welcomed warmly wherever we go. This is the most baffling of all.<\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/14560211953_9aa0788210_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\"><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Another one of our school stays. I believe this time I donned a sarong and trundled down to the river for a bath.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/14383608559_b477380576_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\"><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Doubt we&#8217;ll see many people working in the fields in Malaysia&#8211;and if we do they&#8217;ll probably be guest workers from Indonesia.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 500px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" style=\"border: 5px solid black;\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/14540064955_7289f11113.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\"><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The seas are extremely rough on much of the island so we found few fishing villages.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 500px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" style=\"border: 5px solid black;\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/14351748848_17111f7e11.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\"><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Always time to stop and admire the view.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/14346868777_6fbf8470bb_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\"><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A magical moment as the day drew to a close.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 683px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/14569397074_80d71d3eaa_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"683\" height=\"1024\"><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">This is one of Sumatra&#8217;s many working monkeys. He scrambles up palm trees to retrieve coconuts. You can see these cute little fellas quite often riding around on bikes and motorcycles.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/14575371825_564919d898_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\"><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A view of what all of Indonesia may look like in the future if the country continues its fast pace of growth&#8211;maybe it will be the next South Korea.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Almost six months ago we rolled off the Pelni from Malaysia and set out to circumnavigate Sulawesi. We survived that (but just barely) and went on to bike the length of Java (which turned out to be much better than<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5631,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[115,148,49],"tags":[213,25,214],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v20.10 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>The Good, the Bad and the Downright Baffling - Worldbiking.info<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2014\/07\/the-good-the-bad-and-the-downright-baffling\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Good, the Bad and the Downright Baffling - Worldbiking.info\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Almost six months ago we rolled off the Pelni from Malaysia and set out to circumnavigate Sulawesi. 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