{"id":5170,"date":"2014-02-28T03:15:10","date_gmt":"2014-02-28T02:15:10","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=5170"},"modified":"2020-01-04T14:46:29","modified_gmt":"2020-01-04T19:46:29","slug":"the-best-coastal-cycling-on-the-planet","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2014\/02\/the-best-coastal-cycling-on-the-planet\/","title":{"rendered":"The Best Coastal Cycling on the Planet"},"content":{"rendered":"

That\u2019s a bold claim to make.\u00a0 But we believe it\u2019s true.<\/p>\n

As any keen touring cyclist will know, there\u2019s stiff competition in the best coastal road category.\u00a0 Over the years, we\u2019ve had the good fortune to bike some of the most beautiful seaside routes in the world:\u00a0 America\u2019s Pacific Coast, Australia\u2019s Great Ocean Road, both New Zealand\u2019s North and South Islands, Taiwan\u2019s jagged coast, some of the Thai coast, seven of Indonesia\u2019s islands, Zanzibar, along the Mediterranean and the Aegean Seas and more than a few fine stretches of seaboard cycling in Central and South America.<\/p>\n

My intention in ticking off all these destinations is not to turn you green with envy as you wait out the end of a dreary northern hemisphere winter.\u00a0 But anyone audacious enough to claim to have found the best coastal cycling road on the planet<\/i> ought to put forward some credentials.<\/p>\n

So where is this coastal paradise?\u00a0 Sulawesi.\u00a0 The northern coastal road, to be exact, from Toli-Toli to the Gorontalo turn-off where our quiet stretch of road morphs into the far busier and less scenic Trans-Sulawesi Highway.<\/p>\n

As far as we can tell, practically no cyclists have biked this road.\u00a0 Google searches and several hours poking around Crazy Guy on a Bike didn\u2019t turn up a stitch of info.<\/p>\n

Our Reise Know-How and Nelles maps showed this route as a secondary road, with many unpaved stretches.\u00a0 When we sought out local advice, opinions varied.\u00a0 Some claimed the route was rough and impassable after heavy rains.\u00a0 Others said the road was mostly paved and in reasonable condition.\u00a0 Turns out the latter got it right.<\/p>\n

\"\"
This is pretty much how the road looks most of the way–fabulous views out over the Pacific and not a car in sight.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

So what makes this road so special?<\/h3>\n

The Real Thing.<\/b><\/p>\n

First off, this is a road that hugs the coast almost a 100% of the way.\u00a0 Not one of those faux coastal roads that\u2019s actually situated 5 kilometers inland.\u00a0 \u00a0The road dips and dives over rocky headlands and pops out into tranquil coves and quiet fishing villages.\u00a0 Around every twist and turn is another spectacular view out over the postcard-perfect Pacific.<\/p>\n

Sunrise is a brilliant burst of pastels and sunset a fiery eruption of crimson and golden hues.\u00a0 Midday, wispy clouds hang in a wide azure sky, offering little protection from the blazing equatorial sun.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"
Sunset never fails to impress in Sulawesi.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

They built a road here<\/i>???!!!<\/b>
\nPrior to 2003, locals traveled from one village to the next by boat.\u00a0 Supplies came via a monthly visit from the government Pelni ship. Just a little more than a decade ago, a narrow road was finally carved along the coast.\u00a0 Those were some pretty daring (or foolhardy) engineers that traced the route.<\/p>\n

Terrain dictates that the road is just about wide enough for two trucks to squeeze by.\u00a0 On one side, the land drops abruptly into the sea and on the other it juts up into steep mountains covered in thick tropical forest.\u00a0 Inland areas are completely uninhabited.<\/p>\n

In spite of the many villages along the way, the place still feels pretty remote.<\/p>\n

\"\"
A last look back towards at Toli Toli before we hit the hills ahead.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
This girl was really surprised to see two foreigners on bikes. When I showed her her image on the screen she broke out into a big smile and shouted Terima Kasih (thank you)!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Near Zero Traffic<\/b>
\nMany coastal routes are victims of their own popularity.\u00a0 You end sharing the road with hordes of holiday makers when you\u2019d rather have paradise all to yourself.<\/p>\n

Even worse is when your lovely seaside cycling route is also used as a major transport thoroughfare.<\/p>\n

For the moment, traffic is light on the north Sulawesi coastal route.\u00a0 Most trucks stick to the busy Trans-Sulawesi highway.\u00a0 That leaves just local traffic for the northern coastal route.\u00a0 Most people travel by motorcycle.\u00a0 The well-off travel in fancy SUV\u2019s.\u00a0 I\u2019ll be honest, here.\u00a0 These upper-crust folks can be highly annoying.\u00a0 There were times I was glad I wasn\u2019t packing a pistol.<\/p>\n

Drivers of SUVs firmly believe the road was created for their use, and there\u2019s alone.\u00a0 They blast along with one hand on the horn, scattering dogs, cows, goats, school kids and the odd toddler who\u2019s wandered off from home.<\/p>\n

Sadly, these people take a middle finger greeting as a sign of friendliness and wave back excitedly.\u00a0 Some even pull over to chat.<\/p>\n

Fortunately, these King-of-the-Road types are fairly infrequent.\u00a0 Mostly it\u2019s just you, the big blue sea and a beautiful ribbon of road.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"
This was was one of the rougher, tougher parts of the road. The guy on the motorbike pushed me part way up this steep climb and then insisted on going back to give Eric a hand. His kindness really made our day.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Undiscovered by the Masses<\/b>
\nYou won\u2019t find any exclusive holiday resorts or even backpacker beach hostels in this part of Sulawesi.\u00a0 With the road being upgraded to asphalt, that may change quickly.\u00a0\u00a0 But for now, this place is untouched by tourism.<\/p>\n

You are so Fascinating<\/b><\/p>\n

Given the fact that practically no foreigners make it this far off the beaten track, I guess it\u2019s no surprise that the locals go absolutely wild at the simple sight of somebody with a big, pointy noise and fair hair.<\/p>\n

The stares are unabashed.\u00a0 The requests for photos non-stop.\u00a0 All the attention can be draining by the end of the day, but you can\u2019t help feeling uplifted by all the genuine friendliness.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Cute, and oh, so curious.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Even the dog’s spinning around to have a look!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Fresh Fish, a Nap and a Shower<\/b><\/p>\n

Fishermen set out to sea out at dusk and haul in their catch at dawn.\u00a0 Simple roadside beach shacks offer up generous portions of grilled fish served with rice and vegetables.\u00a0 \u00a0The meals are delicious and cheap.\u00a0 For seaside dining, you\u2019ll pay about half the price of a Big Mac in New York or Paris.<\/p>\n

Feel like a short snooze after a big meal?\u00a0 No problem, restaurants have bamboo napping platforms and comfy couches where you can rest and rejuvenate for an hour or two.<\/p>\n

Before hitting the road again, you can also take a refreshing mandi<\/i> (Indonesian bucket bath) right at the restaurant\u2013it\u2019s completely normal in this part of the world.<\/p>\n

Test your Limits<\/b><\/p>\n

While this may be the world\u2019s most beautiful coastal road, it\u2019s certainly not the easiest.\u00a0 The climbs rarely let up and the fierce tropical sun makes everything doubly difficult.\u00a0 We struggled in spots where the road was not yet paved.\u00a0 Luckily, locals often came to our aid and gave us a welcome push up the steepest stretches.<\/p>\n

If you\u2019re up for a challenge and want to experience one of the world\u2019s most beautiful roads, give the north Sulawesi coastal road a go.<\/p>\n

\"\"
This is a torturous section of road near Palele. Crews are working hard and it ought to be paved within a few months.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
A good spot for your<\/em> next cycle tour?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

That\u2019s a bold claim to make.\u00a0 But we believe it\u2019s true. As any keen touring cyclist will know, there\u2019s stiff competition in the best coastal road category.\u00a0 Over the years, we\u2019ve had the good fortune to bike some of the<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5199,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[115,148,49],"tags":[25,210],"yoast_head":"\nThe Best Coastal Cycling on the Planet - Worldbiking.info<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2014\/02\/the-best-coastal-cycling-on-the-planet\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Best Coastal Cycling on the Planet - Worldbiking.info\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"That\u2019s a bold claim to make.\u00a0 But we believe it\u2019s true. 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