{"id":5146,"date":"2014-02-13T01:22:21","date_gmt":"2014-02-13T00:22:21","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=5146"},"modified":"2020-01-04T13:36:44","modified_gmt":"2020-01-04T18:36:44","slug":"sulawesi-land-of-sand-suffering-and-instant-stardom","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2014\/02\/sulawesi-land-of-sand-suffering-and-instant-stardom\/","title":{"rendered":"Sulawesi: Land of Sand, Suffering and Instant Stardom"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Hello Mister!\u00a0 Hello Mister!\u00a0 Hello Mister!<\/p>\n<p>And so it goes from dawn till dusk.\u00a0 The attention never lets up.\u00a0 Gangs of teenage girls on motorbikes screech to a halt and demand a photo shoot with the odd foreigners.\u00a0 Shy kids sneak a peek as we set up camp in their elementary school.\u00a0 Bold young men surround us at markets and hurl question after question as to what we\u2019re up to in their seldom visited corner of Indonesia.<\/p>\n<p>Not since the remotest corners of Africa have we caused such a stir.<\/p>\n<p>To be honest, it\u2019s a bit baffling.\u00a0 I mean, these people all have television and mobile phones.\u00a0 They\u2019re in no way cut off from the rest of the world.\u00a0 Why on earth are they so damn curious about two smelly tourists on beat up bikes?<\/p>\n<p>I suppose we ought to just be grateful for all the undeserved adoration.\u00a0 A far warmer welcome than the showers of stones we received from some Ethiopian youngsters.<\/p>\n<p>If your idea of paradise is a sandy beach all to yourself then by all means come to Sulawesi.\u00a0 And bring along your bicycle if you don\u2019t mind risking cardiac arrest on the steepest climbs in Southeast Asia.\u00a0 Yes, STEEPER than Borneo.\u00a0 Just goes to show that there\u2019s always greater suffering somewhere down the road.<\/p>\n<p>But of course we love it at the same time.\u00a0 Why else we keep slogging away for almost eight years?\u00a0 Even after so many countries and kilometers I never tire of the excitement of hitting the road at daybreak.\u00a0 I love the cool and calm of the tropics just before sunrise.<\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 922px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12313563993_0832ef01b7_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"922\" height=\"615\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Unless you&#8217;re on the Trans-Sulawesi highway near a major city (of which there are few in Sulawesi) most roads see fairly light traffic. Highways are mostly narrow two-lane affairs with no shoulder.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12313563993_0832ef01b7_b.jpg\">\u00a0<\/a><\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 922px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12313640843_d9be27c276_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"922\" height=\"615\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In villages lots of people still bathe and wash clothes in rivers and lakes. For a Muslim country, women are surprisingly uninhibited about stripping down to a sarong to wash up in public.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Within an hour or two the roads are bustling with kids hustling to school, men roaring by on motorbikes and arrogant drivers of fancy SUVs blasting their horns in an attempt to bully everybody off the road.<\/p>\n<p>By 10 AM we\u2019re drenched in sweat and when the sun hits its zenith and we\u2019re struggling on a 20% grade,<\/p>\n<p>Just then, \u00a0nothing sounds sweeter than being confined to a climate controlled office block.<\/p>\n<p>4 PM and the heat slowly dissipates, the sky turns lovely pastel hues and finally it\u2019s time to call it a day.\u00a0 Rest, recuperate and repeat.<\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 922px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12313052733_edbd5af2cc_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"922\" height=\"615\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Indonesian school boys looking spiffy in their smart uniforms. What&#8217;s got them so enthralled is the sight of Eric posing for a photo with a group of teachers. Who&#8217;d have guessed that could be so hilarious.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 615px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12478641843_724c63c5ab_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"615\" height=\"922\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Seriously folks, Sulawesi has some of the absolute steepest climbs we&#8217;ve ever encountered. This was not one of them.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 922px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12452154214_7f1cd360ac_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"922\" height=\"615\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Nothing better than a dive into the sea to wash off all the accumulated sweat and wipe away the memory of too many tough climbs beneath the scorching equatorial sun.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 922px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12456055653_274c5de387_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"922\" height=\"615\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">After heavy late afternoon rains, the sky lights up for a spectacular sunset and beautiful reflections. This was shot at the local school where we were offered hospitality for the evening. The neighbors across the way invited us in for a refreshing mandi (Indonesian style bucket shower).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 922px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12452432894_39e64dbcea_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"922\" height=\"615\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The Sulawesi coast is dotted with busy fishing villages that take you back in time. Visitors are welcome to wander around but you&#8217;ll be swarmed with requests from proud fisherman demanding that you take a shot of them with their big catch.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 615px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12452805264_af5a7a16d1_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"615\" height=\"922\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Showing off his catch.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 922px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12474569514_aff390d801_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"922\" height=\"615\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Coconut harvesting is the other big business in coastal Sulawesi. Locals dry them by the side of the road which results in a less than pleasant odor.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 720px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12474904144_449f92326b_c.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"720\" height=\"405\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even cows enjoy a day out at the beach.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 922px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12452266034_c4b9a45a69_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"922\" height=\"615\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">In fact, cows seem to have pretty much free range on the entire island.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 737px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12473607174_a9fb198f96_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"737\" height=\"922\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Fish is ultra fresh and you can have the latest catch grilled up for lunch with all the fixings for around $1.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 922px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12314039213_f1f3f104be_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"922\" height=\"615\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Of course there&#8217;s more to Sulawesi than just the sea. You&#8217;ve also got stunning Lake Poso.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 922px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12231294094_d89457e52f_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"922\" height=\"615\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">And the high mountains of the Toraja Region&#8211;famous for its coffee, distinct architecture and mysterious burial traditions.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 922px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12230593925_85943134c3_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"922\" height=\"737\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Offerings for the long departed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 922px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12230389305_5d302908c3_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"922\" height=\"615\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Traditional boat shaped Toraja houses known as Tongkonan.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 554px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"  \" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12231128195_47e8b7fe1a_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"554\" height=\"830\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">High up in the Toraja highlands life is still much the same as it was hundreds of years ago.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 1024px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/01\/12451481825_9be6071c9f_b.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">So far, Sulawesi is turning out to be our favorite island in Indonesia. It&#8217;s remote enough not to be swarmed by tourists, developed enough to mean you&#8217;re never far from basic comforts and the locals couldn&#8217;t be friendlier. Food&#8217;s a bit spicy for my liking but you can&#8217;t have everything.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Hello Mister!\u00a0 Hello Mister!\u00a0 Hello Mister! And so it goes from dawn till dusk.\u00a0 The attention never lets up.\u00a0 Gangs of teenage girls on motorbikes screech to a halt and demand a photo shoot with the odd foreigners.\u00a0 Shy kids<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5157,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[148,49],"tags":[25,210],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v20.10 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Sulawesi: Land of Sand, Suffering and Instant Stardom - Worldbiking.info<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2014\/02\/sulawesi-land-of-sand-suffering-and-instant-stardom\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Sulawesi: Land of Sand, Suffering and Instant Stardom - Worldbiking.info\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Hello Mister!\u00a0 Hello Mister!\u00a0 Hello Mister! 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