{"id":4974,"date":"2013-12-08T11:35:17","date_gmt":"2013-12-08T10:35:17","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=4974"},"modified":"2020-01-04T10:55:53","modified_gmt":"2020-01-04T15:55:53","slug":"the-joy-of-suffering","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2013\/12\/the-joy-of-suffering\/","title":{"rendered":"The Joy of Suffering"},"content":{"rendered":"
Eric shot me a look of quiet desperation, \u201cWhy are we putting ourselves through this?\u201d<\/p>\n
It was a fair question.<\/p>\n
The roads crisscrossing the Cordillera, as the Philippines\u2019 Central Highlands are known, are notoriously steep.\u00a0 And rough.<\/p>\n
20% grades are not unheard of.\u00a0 Even on paved surfaces, my front wheel often popped up and bucked me off the bike.\u00a0 Then I\u2019d have to dig in my heals and push.<\/p>\n
Even the Koga\u2019s lowest gear was no match for the Cordillera climbs. Our Schwalbe Mondial tires, no match for the mud.<\/p>\n
Rain had been following us for the past 8 days.\u00a0 Along the tropical northern coast of Luzon, the showers were refreshing.\u00a0 Here in the Highlands, they were simply chilling.<\/p>\n
I was, admittedly, miserable at the moment Eric posed the question.<\/p>\n
Why were we putting ourselves through this?<\/i><\/p>\n
The road had degenerated into a slick river of mud.\u00a0 On the steep surface, we were slipping and sliding all over the place.\u00a0 On one occasion, I literally had to fling my bike down to avoid skidding backward into a ravine.<\/p>\nNot much you can do when faced with a river of mud. You just have to hunker down and push.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nOnly a sea of soft sand could be worse!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nLucky those Ortlieb panniers are waterproof!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
To top things off, a town fiesta was in full swing in Kabayan, the mountain town we were attempting to reach.\u00a0 Truckloads of revelers were squeezing by on the narrow \u2018highway.\u2019<\/p>\n
In spite of the steady rain and being crammed like cattle into the beds of trucks designed to transport vegetables, the locals were all smiles.<\/p>\n
Impossible not to admire their fortitude.<\/p>\nCrammed into the back of a flatbed truck for a wet, bumpy ride through the mountains wouldn’t have me smiling.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
And to smile back.<\/p>\n
For there was, indeed, much to smile about.<\/p>\n
For starters, the Cordillera is honest-to-goodness, gob-smacking beautiful.\u00a0 This is a place of lush terraced rice paddies, and patchworks of neat garden plots.\u00a0 Here the roads cling precariously to steep mountainsides and dip and dive into narrow valleys.<\/p>\nThe terraced rice fields of central Luzon are an official World Heritage site. They follow the natural contours of the mountains and are designed using stone and mud walls to contain pools for the rice paddies. This ancient practice is fast disappearing as young people migrate to the cities.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nA tiny mountain town looking calm and peaceful at dawn.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTransport in the mountainous areas is scarce so Jeepneys are used double-decker style.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nFarming methods haven’t changed much since the Spanish were in charge. No wonder so many people are migrating to the lowland cities.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nAbove the clouds.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
One day, as Eric repaired a puncture, an old man with weathered skin and kind eyes explained the origins of the road to me.<\/p>\n
\u201cIt was the Americanos,\u201d he began, \u201cwho built the road.\u201d<\/p>\n
\u201cBefore it was only a walking path.\u00a0 But the Americanos came with their Boum-Boum and built a road.\u201d<\/p>\n
Life got a lot better after that, he went on to explain.\u00a0 They could haul their vegetables to market.\u00a0 \u00a0The women no longer had to give birth at home in a cold shack with sketchy sanitation, only their mother-in-law or a neighbor standing by to assist.\u00a0 Children could attend school.<\/p>\n
Now the road was in the process of being widened and upgraded to concrete.<\/p>\n
The Filipino road builders, the local man bemoaned, were not as quick and efficient as the Americans.\u00a0 They didn’t have Boum-Boum and the process of digging up mountain sides was time-consuming.\u00a0 Plus there was much time off for the many \u00a0fiestas.\u00a0 <\/i><\/p>\n
The Cordillera is home to proud tribal peoples whose lives are far removed for the hustle and bustle of coastal living.\u00a0 Many till the land using the same rudimentary methods of their forefathers.\u00a0 This is challenging terrain and from planting till harvest there is back-breaking work to be done.<\/p>\n
The people of the Cordillera speak dozens of mutually indistinguishable languages.\u00a0 When residents of one tribe want to communicate with those from another tribe, English is often the language of choice.<\/p>\n
Sadly, tribal wars continue to flare up from time to time.\u00a0 At the Catholic Church in Tabuk, a sobering memorial pays tribute to the scores of parishioners and four priests (including one Belgian missionary)who have lost their lives in the troubles.<\/p>\nAs if dangerous roads weren’t enough to deal with! Now we’ve also got to make sure we don’t get mixed up in any tribal violence.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
Our stay in Tabuk left me anxious and tense.\u00a0 We arrived in the dusty and disorganized settlement around 4 pm.\u00a0 I popped into the petrol station to use the restroom (called a comfort room in the Philippines) and was immediately accosted by a trio of three women when I exited the facilities.<\/p>\n
The boldest spoke in a low, concerned voice, \u201cThis place is not safe.\u00a0 You better get out of here.\u201d<\/p>\n
She was dead serious.\u00a0 I glanced around.\u00a0 Tabuk did not seem the friendliest or tidiest of towns.\u00a0 It had the feel of an edgy wild-west border town, but not dangerous.\u00a0 No, not a place one should flee from.<\/p>\n
\u201cWhat do you mean it\u2019s dangerous?\u201d I asked searchingly.<\/p>\n
\u201cThere are hold-ups.\u00a0 You can\u2019t be on the streets after sunset.\u00a0 And you\u2026 you stand out here.\u00a0 People know you\u2019re a foreigner and they\u2019ll think you\u2019re rich.\u00a0 I tell you it\u2019s dangerous.\u00a0 Bad things happen after dark.\u201d<\/p>\n
Eric scoffed at the scare mongering, but I was in no need of more convincing.<\/p>\n
\u201cI see.\u00a0 Where shall we go to be safe?\u201d<\/p>\n
\u201cThe Catholic church is just there.\u00a0 You will be out of harm.\u201d<\/p>\n
We high-tailed it to the Catholic Church.\u00a0 In front of the tall gates of the house of worship stood two armed security guards.<\/p>\n
The priest was summoned and assured us things in Tabuk were relatively calm.\u00a0 The security guards were just a precaution.<\/p>\nSadly, thousands of lives have been lost in the ongoing tribal conflicts. The church and state preach peace, but to little avail.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
The following day we cycled high up into the mountains to a small town called Lubuagan.\u00a0 As we sat perched in front of the parochial school preparing lunch a tiny sweet-faced nun came to see what we were up to.<\/p>\n
She, too, was concerned for our safety and insisted we spend the night in the nunnery.\u00a0 There was a feud, she explained, with the next village and travel after dark was ill-advised.\u00a0 Later we discovered that just six months back a man had been gunned down right in front of the statue of the Virgin Mary, not 50 meters from where we were seated.<\/p>\n
Of course these are disputes between tribes.\u00a0 Tourists have little to fear and have never been targeted.<\/p>\n
The stunning landscape did a fine job of distracting me from thoughts of the conflict.\u00a0 In any case, there was no point in fretting; we had to get on with the difficult job of conquering all those mountains.<\/p>\n
As I suffered with the mud and muck on the road to Kabayan, I tossed around Eric\u2019s question:<\/p>\n
Why were we putting ourselves through this?<\/i><\/p>\n
The scenery was certainly one reason.\u00a0 But perhaps not the most important.<\/p>\n
Eventually, we would reach the top of the climb and I would be overcome with a burst of pride.<\/p>\n
We\u2019d done it!<\/i><\/p>\n
6 months from now, I will hardly remember all those easy days cycling along the smooth coastal road.<\/p>\n
But the day we conquered the last climb to Kabayan\u2014that memory will stay with me for years to come.<\/p>\n
Along with all that suffering, came a final dose of joy.<\/p>\nOf course it was worth it!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
On the Road:<\/span><\/strong> 7 years, 6 months, 2 days!<\/p>\n
Total Kilometers:<\/strong> 141,010<\/p>\n
Countries:<\/strong> 96<\/p>\n
Latest Location:<\/strong><\/span> Los Banos, Philippines heading south to Mindoro<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Eric shot me a look of quiet desperation, \u201cWhy are we putting ourselves through this?\u201d It was a fair question. The roads crisscrossing the Cordillera, as the Philippines\u2019 Central Highlands are known, are notoriously steep.\u00a0 And rough. 20% grades are<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4980,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[200,49],"tags":[25],"yoast_head":"\n
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