{"id":3990,"date":"2013-01-13T08:04:10","date_gmt":"2013-01-13T07:04:10","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=3990"},"modified":"2013-01-13T20:01:50","modified_gmt":"2013-01-13T19:01:50","slug":"surviving-new-zealand","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2013\/01\/surviving-new-zealand\/","title":{"rendered":"Surviving New Zealand"},"content":{"rendered":"

Sometimes paradise sours.\u00a0 A dose of extreme weather does the trick on the South Island.\u00a0 We were warned.\u00a0 That I\u2019ll admit.<\/p>\n

Pack your rain gear<\/em> and lots of layers<\/em> we were told.\u00a0 Snow\u2019s possible any time of year.<\/p>\n

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That white stuff on the top is definitely fresh!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

And it is.<\/p>\n

On more than one occasion we\u2019ve woken to a fresh dusting on the mountaintops.\u00a0 It\u2019s beautiful. \u00a0But honestly–this is not the southern hemisphere summer we expected. \u00a0Where are the shorts and t-shirts?<\/p>\n

A New Year<\/h3>\n

Our 2013 began holed up in Te Anau while a storm raged outside the window.\u00a0 (Yes, we were lucky enough to be indoors, courtesy of a Warm Showers host.)<\/p>\n

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The last day of 2012 began with some pleasant riding through Fiordland but ended in a massive storm<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Our ride out to Milford Sound (which I\u2019d heard about for years) looked impossible.\u00a0 The road was closed due to landslides.\u00a0 Further north, a washout meant Highway 6 was shut down.\u00a0 It would take almost a week for this essential route to re-open.<\/p>\n

We\u2019d have liked to nestle deep into our thick sleeping bags and hibernate till summer arrived in earnest.<\/p>\n

Unfortunately, our hosts weren\u2019t able to put us up for another night so we had to hit the slick road north.<\/p>\n

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This shot of Lake Hauroko is classic Fiordland scenery--the area around Milford Sound is similar (only more remote and wild).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Suffering makes you Strong!<\/h3>\n

Now rain, as you might imagine, ranks right up there with wind as a cyclist\u2019s worst enemy.\u00a0 Tropical storms can be a refreshing bit of bliss.\u00a0 But New Zealand rain, the kind that beats down on you with unrelenting force chilling you to the bone, is far from pleasurable.<\/p>\n

There\u2019s not much you can do about extreme weather.\u00a0 For those with deep pockets, the obvious choice is to rush to the nearest Bed and Breakfast, hand over a fistful of cash and hunker down for the night.<\/p>\n

We budget cyclists rely on a combination of stealth, pity and good luck to escape the elements.<\/p>\n

After struggling through the downpour,we finally rolled into the population of tiny The Key (permanent population 1). \u00a0We huddled under an overhang at the local school and took stock. \u00a0Not a bad spot to camp, we agreed.<\/p>\n

Unsurprisingly, there was a sign forbidding Freedom Camping.\u00a0\u00a0 A $500 penalty seemed a high price to pay for pitching our tent on unsanctioned land. \u00a0\u00a0Sure, it would take a hard-hearted cop to fine two cyclist\u2019s seeking shelter in the midst of a raging storm. \u00a0But was it worth risking an entire month\u2019s bike touring budget?<\/p>\n

Not for us.\u00a0 In addition to the school, downtown The Key consisted of one old farmhouse.\u00a0 We knocked on the door.\u00a0 \u201cHi, do you think we could pitch our tent in your shed for the night?\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cAbsolutely not.\u00a0 I\u2019ve got a spare room.\u00a0 Come on in.\u201d<\/p>\n

And that\u2019s how we made the acquaintance of \u00a0The Key\u2019s sole inhabitant, a friendly guy named Ray.<\/p>\n

After luxuriating in a hot shower and downing several homemade scones, our outlook on life had made a 180 degree turn for the better.<\/p>\n

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Ray and his amazing home-made scones!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

And the next day, whad’ya know\u2014blue skies and sunshine!\u00a0 Over the following few days we enjoyed New Zealand at its best…<\/p>\n

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A beautiful camping spot on the shores of lake Wakatipu--one of the few scenic spots where so-called Freedom Camping is not expressly forbidden. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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A fantastic ride--the road hugs the lake its entire length. Start early and you'll have the road to yourself.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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The ride up New Zealand's highest sealed road -- The Crown Range. Daunting indeed, but do-able!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Tackling the switchbacks on the Crown Range Pass--some steep moments, that's for sure.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Satisfaction at the top of the pass!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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A perfect summer's day on the shores of Lake Wanaka--the place was packed with Kiwis and Aussie families on holiday.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Lush native forests in Mount Aspiring National Park<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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And Now…<\/h3>\n

It’s raining AGAIN! \u00a0Fortunately we’re being well looked after by blog followers and fellow cycling enthusiasts Lloyd and Vinny. \u00a0The weather is expected to improve tomorrow (although you never really know in New Zealand) before another big storm front sweeps over the island on Wednesday.<\/p>\n

Given the kindness we’ve experienced so far in New Zealand, I’ve no doubt we’ll find shelter during the next deluge.<\/p>\n

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