{"id":3954,"date":"2012-12-27T00:38:08","date_gmt":"2012-12-26T23:38:08","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=3954"},"modified":"2019-12-30T10:12:38","modified_gmt":"2019-12-30T15:12:38","slug":"pedaling-through-paradise","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2012\/12\/pedaling-through-paradise\/","title":{"rendered":"Pedaling through Paradise"},"content":{"rendered":"

We\u2019d been hearing about New Zealand\u2019s charms for years.\u00a0 One of the best cycling destinations in the world we were told.\u00a0 Rugged mountain passes, spectacular coastal roads, stunningly beautiful countryside and \u00a0miles and miles of unpaved backroads where the sheep far outnumber the motorists.<\/p>\n

In short, a pedaller\u2019s paradise.<\/p>\n

As long, that is, as you don\u2019t mind raging headwinds, pounding rain and drivers who think cycling is something that should be practiced on a stationary machine in the privacy of your own home.<\/p>\n

A (minor) Hurdle to Clear<\/h3>\n

Before you can pedal out into paradise, you\u2019ve got to get your gear past the stringent eye of the bio-security authorities at the airport.\u00a0 New Zealand, quite logically, wants to keep all sorts of foreign pests and destructive vegetation from reaching its shores.<\/p>\n

Which means bikes and gear must be spic and span ready for inspection upon arrival.\u00a0 Items showing traces of soil or seeds can be held for disinfection or even refused entry into the country.\u00a0 A nightmare scenario you\u2019ll surely agree.<\/p>\n

Our inspector greeted us with a smile.\u00a0 \u201cI\u2019ll just have to have a look at the bikes,\u201d he instructed.\u00a0 We busted open our carefully packed bike boxes and bags.\u00a0 Brand-new tires I boasted.\u00a0 Not a speck of dirt on \u2018em.\u00a0 Tent\u2019s been thoroughly washed as have the bags.<\/em><\/p>\n

\u201cBikes look pretty good,\u201d conceded the officer, \u201cbut I\u2019ll have to take the tent back to our lab for inspection.\u201d<\/p>\n

Uh-oh I thought.\u00a0 More trouble on the way.\u00a0 Things hadn\u2019t been going well since we\u2019d heaved our bikes and gear on to the scale at check-in back in Melbourne.\u00a0 Also with a smile, the JetStar agent informed us our bags and bikes came to 91 kilos\u201411 kilos over our allotted 80..<\/p>\n

We\u2019d have to cough up an extra $275!\u00a0 That\u2019s half a month\u2019s travel budget for us.<\/p>\n

We snapped into action, ripping open bags, stuffing ourselves into so many layers of extra clothing that even rail-thin Eric began resembling the Michelin Man.\u00a0 \u00a0I stuffed my pockets with spare bike parts and gear and even considered the possibility of wearing the heavy bike lock around my neck as an article of jewelry.\u00a0 Finally, 30 minutes before take-off we\u2019d got it right. Not a gram over 80 kilos we\u2019d calculated. \u00a0 \u00a0With a heavy sigh, the agent informed us we were still<\/em> 3 kilos too heavy.\u00a0\u00a0 But, having observed our valiant efforts at weight reduction, she\u2019d let it slip.\u00a0 No extra charges but we\u2019d better sprint through passport control or risk missing the flight.<\/p>\n

Now we were trying to finagle our way through customs with a questionably clean tent.\u00a0 \u00a0\u00a0Perhaps the microscope would pick up some exotic plant material left over from the highlands of Laos or the Borneo jungle and our precious Big Agnes shelter would be confiscated and burned.\u00a0 The government website stated that items would not be returned upon inspection unless deemed safe.<\/p>\n

We were braced for bad news.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 But what we got was a courteous, \u201cHere you are.\u00a0 Enjoy your stay in New Zealand.”<\/p>\n

Woo-hoo!\u00a0 We\u2019d made it. Admitted to new Zealand for a three month stay. Tent and all.<\/p>\n

Now it was time to search out those rugged mountain passes, spectacular coastal roads, stunningly beautiful countryside and deserted rural roads.<\/p>\n

Prepped for Paradise<\/h3>\n

On the South Island of New Zealand it doesn\u2019t take much to uncover such spots.\u00a0 The country has been blessed with far more than its fair share of natural beauty.<\/p>\n

\n

\"\"
Some seriously beautiful scenery on the South Island.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

On the advice of John, a helpful blog follower who\u2019s now hosting us in Invercargill, we headed inland from Christchurch.\u00a0 The road was deliciously flat, but headwinds hampered our progress on day one.\u00a0 It seems there\u2019s always something<\/em> conspiring against us.\u00a0 If it\u2019s not headwinds it\u2019s heat.\u00a0 If not heat then it\u2019s rain.\u00a0 If not rain then a band of crazed drivers are on the loose.<\/p>\n

After so many years on the road, you might think we\u2019d get used to such climatic headaches and simply carry on.\u00a0 Not the case.\u00a0 I find myself having less and less patience for such annoyances.\u00a0 After 50 kilometers of dueling with mother nature, we plopped down by the side of the road.\u00a0 The whistling wind was causing such a racket we couldn\u2019t even listen to podcasts while pedaling.<\/p>\n

Within a few moments a passing farmer rolled up to see if we were all right.\u00a0 New Zealanders have a well-deserved reputation for friendliness and hospitality.<\/p>\n

\n

\"\"
One of the many local sheep farmers who slowed down to chat with us.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cWe\u2019re fine, it\u2019s just the wind,\u201d we assured him.\u00a0 \u00a0\u201cJust carry on 5 more kilometers, \u201cdirected the farmer.\u00a0 \u201cYou\u2019ll come to Hororata.\u00a0 Plenty of room to pitch your tent at the domain.\u00a0 Got toilets there too and drinking water.\u201d<\/p>\n

Sounded good to us.\u00a0 A DOMAIN, we were to discover, is just the name given to a town\u2019s recreational areas, a kind of park with playing fields.<\/p>\n

We set up camp in the domain.\u00a0 Nobody stopped by to hassle us or ask us to leave, for which we were quite relieved.\u00a0 So-called \u00a0\u201cFreedom Camping\u201d is frowned upon in New Zealand.\u00a0 Touristic areas are slathered with signs forbidding you to camp.\u00a0 Those caught can be fined up to $500 on the spot.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Freedom Camping…dare to do it!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

So far, things have worked out to us on the camping front.\u00a0 Farm families are warm and welcoming when we ask to camp on their land.\u00a0 We\u2019ve been invited in to shower, wash clothes, check our emails and sent off with chocolates for the road.\u00a0 In other cases we\u2019ve employed the arrive late, depart\u00a0 early, leave no trace behind \u00a0method of stealth camping.<\/p>\n

\n

\"\"
It is possible to freedom camp in New Zealand, but you’ve definitely got to use a bit of stealth.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\n

\"\"
Nothing beats a night under the stars in the wild open spaces of New Zealand.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Hills Ahead!<\/h3>\n

On day 2 we got our first taste of the hills everyone had been warning us about.\u00a0 A terrific time free-wheeling it down to the Rakai Gorge and a bit of huffing and puffing on the way back up.\u00a0 I fear those first fifty pancake flat kilometers out of Christchurch may be the only ones we\u2019ll experience in this country.<\/p>\n

After the torturous climbs in Indonesia, these hardly feel demanding.\u00a0 There\u2019s no heat and humidity to contend with and certainly not a constant stream of logging trucks or \u00fcber-friendly folks on motorbikes attempting conversation as we pedal in pain.<\/p>\n

There is indeed much truth in the notion that New Zealand is a pedaller\u2019s paradise.\u00a0 Adventure is there if you want it, but if comfort is more your style, you can easily stick to the main roads hoppingp from one comfortable acoommodation to the next.<\/p>\n

Our first taste of advenuture came on the rough ride to Cattle Creek where we got our feet wet more than once as we forded some minor creeks on the way up Hakataramea Pass.\u00a0 The ride over Danseys Pass lead us deep into sheep country and the lush emerald-green grazing grounds of the high country.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Proud to reach the top of Hakataramea Pass. It’s not high, but rough patches of gravel make it a challenge in spots.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\n

\"\"
OKAY, not exactly a raging river but this is about as adventurous as it gets in NZ<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Much more fun going down the other side!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After biking\u00a0 through the thick Naseby forest, we were spit out onto the famous Otago Central Rail Trail.<\/p>\n

Sure, it\u2019s touristy.\u00a0 You\u2019ll come across those who\u2019ve allotted 5 days for the 150 kilometer track, are checking into a cosy B&B each night and are having their gear transported by mini-van.\u00a0 But the trail is beautiful and shouldn\u2019t be missed.\u00a0 And, if you need a break from the drizzle and mist, Central Otago is known as one of the driest spots in the country.<\/p>\n

\n

\"\"
Even if you normally steer clear of touristy spots, don’t miss the Central Otago Rail Trail.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\n

\"\"
The Ceantral Otago Rail Trail..probably the most popular ride in all of New Zealand.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Finding quiet backroads is fairly easy and we\u2019re rarely bothered by traffic.\u00a0 We got our desired dose of stunning coastal scenery on the ride through the little-visited Catlins region.\u00a0 That\u2019s the place to head to for pristine waterfalls, windswept hills and precarious sections of road hugging the wild coastline of the deep south.<\/p>\n

Christmas Eve saw us conquering the final hills around stunning Curio Bay before we cruised into Invercargill for some much needed rest.<\/p>\n

Soon it will be back to the bikes and time to see if the rest of the country lives up to its reputation as a pedaller\u2019s paradise.\u00a0 I\u2019m betting it will.<\/p>\n

\"\"
The spectacular Catlins coast in New Zealand’s deep south.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\n

\"\"
The rugged coast of the Catlins near Curio Bay–looking forward to more days like this as we continue to explore the South Island.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\n

Check out more New Nealand South Island Photos on Flickr<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Catch up on the latest news via the\u00a0World Biking Facebook Page<\/a> or connect with us onTwitter<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Send us an email at worldbiking@gmail.com<\/p>\n

Leave a comment below.<\/p>\n

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We\u2019d been hearing about New Zealand\u2019s charms for years.\u00a0 One of the best cycling destinations in the world we were told.\u00a0 Rugged mountain passes, spectacular coastal roads, stunningly beautiful countryside and \u00a0miles and miles of unpaved backroads where the sheep<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3955,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[178,49],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\nPedaling through Paradise - Worldbiking.info<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2012\/12\/pedaling-through-paradise\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Pedaling through Paradise - 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