{"id":3804,"date":"2012-08-25T10:49:11","date_gmt":"2012-08-25T08:49:11","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=3804"},"modified":"2019-12-30T04:02:32","modified_gmt":"2019-12-30T09:02:32","slug":"coffee-and-craters","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2012\/08\/coffee-and-craters\/","title":{"rendered":"Coffee and Craters"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Visa extensions in hand, we slipped out of Surabaya. \u00a0Kalimantan&#8211;with its heat, humidity and hills&#8211; had left us exhausted. Downtime imposed by the dawdling \u00a0Indonesian\u00a0immigration officials\u00a0had done us good. \u00a0We&#8217;d satiated our\u00a0appetite for\u00a0internet and\u00a0were eager to start cranking the pedals again.<\/p>\n<p>Java&#8217;s got a bad rap as a bicycle touring destination. \u00a0Most two-wheeled travellers cite the busy roads and constant stream of settlements as reasons to give Indonesia&#8217;s most populous island a wide berth.<\/p>\n<p>Eric promised he&#8217;d charted a quiet route through the Javanese highlands. \u00a0I was suspicious.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"cycling Java\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/7683771924_c4fdeed2e2_z.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"384\" height=\"576\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" style=\"border: 4px solid black;\" title=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/worldbiking\/sets\/72157629677718024\/\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/7683782246_7c46cc454b_z.jpg\" alt=\"Java Bicycle Touring\" width=\"576\" height=\"384\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">The second day out of Surabaya we&#8217;d climbed to around 1,500 meters. \u00a0The road was incredibly steep (some spots up to nearly 20% grade) and winding. \u00a0Difficult to be sure, but much easier than Kalimantan since we didn&#8217;t have to deal with the heat and humidity. \u00a0The terrain was covered in terraced fields. \u00a0Not rice paddies, as you might imagine, but\u00a0vegetables\u00a0such as\u00a0broccoli\u00a0and cauliflower. \u00a0At the summit, fields of luscious strawberries spread out over the steep hills.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">Our biggest challenge was Ramadhan. \u00a0Most restaurants were closed until after sunset. \u00a0We took to asking around about\u00a0open\u00a0eateries\u00a0and were often directed down a side street into a building with the shades drawn tight. \u00a0Inside were Christians and weak-willed Muslims indulging in gastronomic delights.<\/p>\n<h4 style=\"text-align: left;\">Chasing Volcanoes<\/h4>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">No visit to East Java would be complete without a climb up to <a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Mount_Bromo\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Mount Bromo<\/a>, Indonesia&#8217;s best known active volcano. \u00a0Bromo (2,329 meters) last blew its top in 2004, killing two people. \u00a0These days jeeps ferry well-heeled\u00a0tourists up to the crater rim. \u00a0We decided to bike up.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">The most popular route is via\u00a0Cemoro Lawang. \u00a0After consultation with\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.travelblog.org\/Bloggers\/Banchory-to-the-Bosphorous-by-Bike\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">Robin<\/a> (the same guy whose blog we&#8217;d turned to in planning our Kalimantan route&#8211;we actually met him in Surabaya which he now calls home) we decided to give the alternative route from the\u00a0southwest\u00a0via Ngadas a try.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">Robin had warned us of incredibly steep grades and a rough road. \u00a0He&#8217;d pushed for 20 odd kilometers. \u00a0Yes, TWENTY KILOMETERS. \u00a0PUSHING!<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">Does that sound like an\u00a0experience\u00a0one needs to tick off a bucket list?<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">Yeah, that&#8217;s what I thought, too. \u00a0We left our gear in care of the priest at the Catholic church in Tumpang and biked up unloaded. \u00a0Wisest decision we&#8217;d made since deciding to bail 1,500 kilometers short of the complete Borneo circumnavigation. \u00a0(Mind you we stuck Borneo out for 3,500 kilometers. \u00a0We&#8217;d suffered enough.)<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">The ride up to Bromo was one of the best days of biking in Indonesia.<\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 518px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" style=\"border: 4px solid black;\" title=\"Biking up Mount Bromo, East java, indonesia\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/7709040720_5f8a6cd2b8_z.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"518\" height=\"346\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Local traffic!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\n<figure style=\"width: 576px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" title=\"biking mount Bromo\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/7703886530_a9603a842e_z.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"576\" height=\"384\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Proudly posing at the crater rim of Mount Bromo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 346px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"border: 4px solid black;\" title=\"Biking down Mount Bromo, East Java, Indonesia\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/7708828606_5fdffe5294_z.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"346\" height=\"518\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">A late afternoon mist rolled in as we flew down the mountain.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">\n<figure style=\"width: 384px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" title=\"local woman on mount Bromo\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/7709297744_a5ef3ef9cc_z.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"384\" height=\"576\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Life&#8217;s not exactly easy in the highlands of Java but locals are always ready with a smile and a &#8220;Hello Mister!&#8221;<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">\n<p>We&#8217;d barely recovered from Bromo when it was time to take on Kawah Ijen. This is actually a plateau, which at one time was a huge 134 sq km active crater. \u00a02148 m above sea level lies a spectacular turquoise sulfur lake surrounded by the sheer crater walls of the volcano.<\/p>\n<p>What\u2019s really special about the lake is the sulfur collectors who work there.\u00a0 These men trek up and down the mountain shouldering baskets of pure sulfur from a quarry on the lake\u2019s edge.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s a labor-intensive\u00a0operation and not very profitable for the miners themselves.\u00a0 I imagine the middlemen make out pretty well.<\/p>\n<p>The ride was fantastic&#8211;tough cycling but fun climbing through beautiful scenery.\u00a0 Much of the area is covered with coffee plantations and cool shade trees.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\n<figure style=\"width: 576px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" title=\"bicycle touring in Indonesia near kawah Ijen\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/7746171272_16a65662ef_z.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"576\" height=\"384\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The road started out nice and smooth and not too steep. Things got a lot tougher 50 kilometers further on.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\n<figure style=\"width: 384px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/7746317744_d72408fc4c_z.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"384\" height=\"576\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Workers from the surrounding coffee plantations are ferried around less than ideal conditions. The road got quite rough for a short stretch.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\n<figure style=\"width: 384px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" title=\"cycling through coffee plantations in java\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/7746619132_2526252e27_z.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"384\" height=\"576\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">It was fun cycling through the plantations knowing this is where some of the world&#8217;s best coffee originates.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\n<figure style=\"width: 576px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" title=\"Biking towards Ijen\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/7855640134_444d7e6063_z.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"576\" height=\"384\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">We knocked off the last few kilometers to the base of Ijen just after sunrise. The air was chilly at around 2,000 meters.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure style=\"width: 576px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" title=\"clouds at the crater\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/7745746592_0e09779f03_z.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"576\" height=\"384\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">We had to hike the final 5 kilometers of Kawah Ijen on foot. The views out over the plateaus were spectacular.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\n<figure style=\"width: 576px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" title=\"crater lake at ijen\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/7855642888_ba6fb7b0f7_z.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"576\" height=\"384\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The beautiful crater lake \u00a0atop Ijen.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\n<figure style=\"width: 384px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" title=\"Sulfur Miners trekking down Ijen\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/7855642144_8846242800_z.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"384\" height=\"576\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">These guys trudge 3 miles down the mountain with a load of up to 90 KGS (200lbs) for around $13 a day.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">\n<figure style=\"width: 384px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" \" title=\"Cycling East Java near Ijen\" src=\"http:\/\/worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/7855641230_781908a7b8_z.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"384\" height=\"576\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Biking through the beautiful tropical forest back down to the coast after our trek up to Ijen. \u00a0The road was REALLY rough on the way down.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h4 style=\"text-align: left;\">Island Hopping<\/h4>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">Eric had been right about the route. \u00a0It was quiet for the most part. \u00a0 You won&#8217;t hear me bad-mouthing Java&#8211;I loved our time touring there.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">The following day we caught a ferry to Bali. \u00a0 More on that phase of our Indonesia bike tour plus news from cycling Lombok, Sumbawa and Flores in the next update.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Visa extensions in hand, we slipped out of Surabaya. \u00a0Kalimantan&#8211;with its heat, humidity and hills&#8211; had left us exhausted. Downtime imposed by the dawdling \u00a0Indonesian\u00a0immigration officials\u00a0had done us good. \u00a0We&#8217;d satiated our\u00a0appetite for\u00a0internet and\u00a0were eager to start cranking the pedals<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3822,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[148,49],"tags":[172,173,170,171],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v20.10 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Coffee and Craters - Worldbiking.info<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2012\/08\/coffee-and-craters\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Coffee and Craters - Worldbiking.info\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Visa extensions in hand, we slipped out of Surabaya. \u00a0Kalimantan&#8211;with its heat, humidity and hills&#8211; had left us exhausted. 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