{"id":3671,"date":"2012-06-18T08:29:15","date_gmt":"2012-06-18T06:29:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=3671"},"modified":"2019-12-30T03:32:06","modified_gmt":"2019-12-30T08:32:06","slug":"dual-reality-cyclists-and-a-culture-of-collective-amnesia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2012\/06\/dual-reality-cyclists-and-a-culture-of-collective-amnesia\/","title":{"rendered":"Dual Reality: cyclists and a culture of collective amnesia"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Six months from now we\u2019ll be 8,000 kilometers south of the equator somewhere on the South Island of New Zealand.\u00a0 I imagine us gathered around a roaring campfire swapping tales with fellow cyclists.\u00a0 Sooner or later the talk will turn to routes.<\/p>\n

\u201cYou guys biked all around Borneo?\u00a0 Wow!\u00a0 Must have been amazing.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cYeah, pretty amazing,\u201d I\u2019ll agree, launching into a lengthy description of Borneo\u2019s many merits.<\/p>\n

First of all, you\u2019ve got the mist-shrouded mountains<\/strong> of the Crocker range.\u00a0 Also known as the Spine of Sabah<\/em>, this thickly-forested region culminates in Mount Kinabalu at a height of 4,095.2 m (13,436 ft).<\/p>\n

\u201cYeah, it\u2019s a real workout,\u201d I\u2019ll boast.\u00a0 \u201cThe climbs almost killed me, but gazing out over the peaks at sunrise\u2026.that \u2013THAT--made it all worthwhile.\u00a0 Some of the best scenery in Southeast Asia.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"
Misty mountains in Borneo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Killer climbs, but oh so beautiful!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

And the roads<\/strong>, you ask?<\/p>\n

Awesome.\u00a0 Smooth as silk most of the time.\u00a0 Hardly any traffic.\u00a0 Feels like you\u2019ve got the entire wild island to yourself.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Silky smooth and so fun to ride.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Adventure?<\/strong> Sure, sure.\u00a0 Plenty of backroads to explore.\u00a0 Just choose a track and ramble off for a two-wheeled trek to a Dayak village.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Cycling the backroads of Borneo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"
Village kids having a great time skinny dipping in Sabah.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

What about getting close to nature<\/strong>?<\/p>\n

In Borneo, my friend, you\u2019re surrounded by it.\u00a0 We\u2019re talking thick tropical jungle filled with brightly colored birds and exotic snakes, a place of fierce rivers and friendly orangutans.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

How about the locals<\/strong>?<\/p>\n

Some of the nicest people on the planet.\u00a0 Forget about checking into a hotel for the night.\u00a0 Just roll up to any church or school and you can be certain of a warm welcome and spot to spend the night.\u00a0 No hassles, no rip-offs, just a lot of friendly folks who seldom see tourists.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Locals having a communal morning bath in Sabah.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Give it six months and several thousand kilometers and that\u2014I\u2019m fairly certain\u2014is the version of Borneo that will have taken hold in my consciousness.<\/span><\/h3>\n

Another Reality<\/h3>\n

But TODAY<\/strong>, ask me about biking Borneo and here\u2019s what \u201creality\u201d looks like.<\/p>\n

\u201cYou guys are biking all around Borneo?\u00a0 Wow!\u00a0 Must be amazing.\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201cAmazing? Yeah, right\u2026perhaps for palm-oil plantation aficionados,\u201d I\u2019ll sneer, launching into a rant about the 1,001 reasons why Borneo is the least pleasant place on the planet<\/strong> for cycle touring.<\/p>\n

\u201cFirst of all,\u201d I\u2019ll groan, \u201cthe climbs almost gave me a coronary\u2014we\u2019re talking 10 %--14% even 16% grades.\u00a0 Imagine biking that kind of slope in 90% humidity with the sun radiating from above. \u00a0Cycling Borneo SUCKS! \u00a0The suffering is something like doing Bikram yoga in a sauna for eight hours straight.\"<\/p>\n

\"\"
14%! They don't build 'em much steeper than that!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Roads?<\/strong> Narrow, no shoulder and clogged with 18-wheelers carting away palm-oil and the last of the hardwood forests.\u00a0 We\u2019re talking hundreds of close-calls with these behemoths each time we venture onto Borneo\u2019s risky roads.\u00a0 As much fun as playing Russian roulette.<\/p>\n

\"\"
A fair chance of getting flattened if you spend too much time on Borneo's busy roads.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Adventure?<\/strong> On BORNEO? \u00a0\u00a0You\u2019re kidding, right? I know, I now, the very name BORNEO brings to mind headhunters and deep dark forests shrouded in mystery.\u00a0 But times have changed since the British and Dutch set up trading ports back in the 1800\u2019s.\u00a0 If you want adventure you\u2019ll have to hook up with a guide and trek for days into the last vestiges of pristine rainforest. Most of the island has been chain-sawed away to make room for palm-oil plantations.<\/p>\n

The view from the saddle will be that of a barren land consisting of vast blocks of palms.\u00a0 Miles and miles and miles of biological deserts.\u00a0 Almost total decimation on some parts of Borneo, all in the pursuit of palm oil.\u00a0 Give that a thought the next time you bite into a Kit Kat, scarf down some Pringles or pig out on a frozen pizza.\u00a0 Palm oil has worked its way into all types of processed foods, even some granola bars<\/em> are laced with palm oil.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Alright, I know all these endless palm oil plantations might look rather pleasant to the untrained eye, but trust me, thousands of kilometers of mono-culture does not make for pleasant cycling.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As for nature<\/strong>\u2014palm oil plantations (as far as I can tell) are not a natural environment for any living creature apart from laborers shipped in from poorer neighboring countries(think Indonesians and Filipinos). Orangutans and other indigenous species now squeeze into various protected areas and reserves.\u00a0 Unless road kill qualifies as wildlife, you\u2019re not going to see much fauna while biking Borneo.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Not quite roadkill, but well on its way.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

That brings us to the locals<\/strong>.\u00a0 No need--in this case--for amnesia to kick in.\u00a0 Whether it\u2019s the friendly pastor at the Methodist church in Lahad Datu who offers a spare room for the night, the locals in Kota Kinabatangan who lead us to a neighborhood house under renovation which we can call home for the night or the obliging police officers in Ngabang who put us up at the station for the night, the Borneans are hospitable almost to a fault.<\/p>\n

\"\"
A fine spot to pitch the tent for the night! A roof is essential since Borneo says heavy rainfall year round.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

What's reality?<\/h3>\n

So there it is.\u00a0 One island. Two realities.\u00a0\u00a0 And a clear-cut case supporting the need for collective amnesia.<\/p>\n

Without the fine effects of outright forgetting, glossing over and editing the past, we\u2019d all curl up in front of the TV after our first encounter with headwinds, killer hills, maniacal traffic or thousands of miles of palm oil plantations.<\/p>\n

We\u2019d never recover from the agony of almost getting blown away while pedaling across Patagonia, the suffering induced by those long stretches of nothingness through the Sahara and the Gobi and we\u2019d surely never get over the lung- scorching, thigh-wrenching torture of climbing the highlands of Guatemala, Ethiopia or Borneo.<\/p>\n

Looking back, I remember Patagonia as a place of turquoise lakes and pristine beauty.\u00a0 The Sahara, I recall, had a magical element to it, enormous dunes and star-filled skies that went on forever.\u00a0 The only memory I conjure up from those climbs in Ethiopia and Guatemala\u00a0is the elation that swept over me as I summited the hill and swooped down below.<\/p>\n

Amnesia:\u00a0 a cyclist\u2019s best friend.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Maybe biking Borneo's not so bad after all!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Am I the only one suffering from cyclists' amnesia?<\/h4>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Six months from now we\u2019ll be 8,000 kilometers south of the equator somewhere on the South Island of New Zealand.\u00a0 I imagine us gathered around a roaring campfire swapping tales with fellow cyclists.\u00a0 Sooner or later the talk will turn<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3681,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[152,144,26,49],"tags":[295,296],"yoast_head":"\nDual Reality: cyclists and a culture of collective amnesia - Worldbiking.info<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2012\/06\/dual-reality-cyclists-and-a-culture-of-collective-amnesia\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Dual Reality: cyclists and a culture of collective amnesia - 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