{"id":3520,"date":"2012-04-30T05:21:37","date_gmt":"2012-04-30T03:21:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=3520"},"modified":"2019-12-29T12:10:51","modified_gmt":"2019-12-29T17:10:51","slug":"bicycle-touring-malaysia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2012\/04\/bicycle-touring-malaysia\/","title":{"rendered":"Malaysia Mix: ATM Annoyances, advice from the imam and more"},"content":{"rendered":"

Eric stepped out of the small supermarket scowling.<\/p>\n

\u201cThey don\u2019t take Thai Baht.\u201d<\/p>\n

Pretty normal, I decided, since we are, after all, in Malaysia.<\/p>\n

Normal, but annoying, since all we had was Thai Baht.\u00a0 And a stash of US dollars, but those were meant for emergency purposes only<\/em>.<\/p>\n

A growling stomach could hardly be interpreted as an emergency.\u00a0 And besides, those dollars were certainly just as worthless as the Baht when it came to supermarket shopping in small Malaysian border towns.<\/p>\n

Border Issues<\/h3>\n

Honest to goodness Third World borders are so much easier to navigate.\u00a0 Sure they\u2019re hectic, but Third World border crossings come equipped with a small army of enterprising individuals eager to cater to a traveler\u2019s every need.<\/p>\n

Touts roam around drumming up business for cheap hotels, hawkers tempt you with cool drinks and fried snacks and you never have to look far to find a few shady looking money changers flashing big wads of cash.<\/p>\n

In orderly Malaysia, there was none of that.\u00a0 Just air-conditioned supermarkets and solid looking ATMs that obstinately refused to spit out cash no matter which international card we inserted.<\/p>\n

Lunch Money<\/h3>\n

Which left me sulking on the curb with an empty stomach.<\/p>\n

Given the many gastronomic delights of Southeast Asia (think banana pancakes, coconut curries, fresh fruit shakes and deep fried prawns so cheap even Eric admits they\u2019re a bargain), we\u2019d \u00a0slacked off when it came to stocking up on provisions.<\/p>\n

But no local currency meant no restaurants and no supermarkets and we were hungry<\/em>.<\/p>\n

A quick rummage through our panniers unearthed two banged up tins of tuna.\u00a0 They\u2019d been with us since the Yukon and will probably still be buried at the bottom of the bag when we hit Australia in 6 months\u2019 time. \u00a0I discovered ramen noodles as well, something I\u2019d considered a real treat back in Nigeria (which tells you something about that country\u2019s cuisine); I could even recall a few times back in remote parts of the Andes when we\u2019d have pounced on instant noodles. \u00a0That day Ramen\u00a0noodles\u00a0sounded about as enticing as the fried creepy crawlies we’d come across in Laos.<\/p>\n

But Southeast Asia had spoiled us.\u00a0 Made us soft and demanding.\u00a0 Turned us into food snobs of a sort.<\/p>\n

The Rescue<\/h3>\n

Eric is playing Super Husband trying to convince the shopkeeper to accept foreign money just so his poor, hungry wife\u00a0doesn’t\u00a0have to cycle 30 kilometers on an empty stomach to the next town with a bank.<\/p>\n

Poor Hungry Wife glares \u00a0at the tins of banged-up tuna, eyes the ramen\u00a0noodles\u00a0with an air of contempt. \u00a0Kind Malay passerby takes in the scene.\u00a0 Poor tourists, she is thinking.\u00a0 How strange they are to ride bicycles in such a hot country.\u00a0 They are hungry.\u00a0 I must help them.\u00a0 It is my duty.\u00a0 They are guests in my country.\u00a0 Very odd ones, from the look of it, but guests nevertheless.<\/p>\n

Poor Hungry Wife accepts chocolate filled buns and other goodies from Kind Malay Passerby. She is embarrassed (I\u2019m not a beggar, she tells herself) but appreciative.\u00a0 \u00a0The two women exchange smiles.\u00a0 Grateful foreigners cycle into the distance, stomachs satisfied, marveling at the kindness they stumble upon again and again and again.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/worldbiking\/sets\/72157629478606532\"
Not even money for McDonalds<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Malaysia Mix<\/h3>\n

Malaysia is nothing if not a land of diversity.\u00a0 A fusion of cultures, of course, with the nation made up of Malays, Indians and Chinese and their corresponding places of worship, mosques, Hindu shrines Buddhist temples, and the odd church here and there.<\/p>\n

For ultra-modern fast-paced living, the West coast is the place to be.\u00a0 For a slower moving society still holding fast to tradition, the East Coast is the spot.\u00a0 Or so say the guidebooks.<\/p>\n

The Idyllic East Coast<\/h3>\n

Being of bucolic bent, we opted for the east.\u00a0 Energized by those chocolate buns, we cruised into the northeast\u2019s major population hub: Kota Bahru in the state of Kelantan.<\/p>\n

Kelantan is the heart of conservative Malay culture, and far different from the rest of the country.\u00a0 Muslim women in Kelantan, for example, are REQUIRED to cover their heads and must dress in a highly conservative manner.\u00a0 That means absolutely no exposed flesh apart from hands, feet and face.<\/p>\n

In the rest of the country, oddly, those same women can dress as they please\u2014mini-skirts, plunging neck-lines, you name it.\u00a0 Do that in Kelantan and they\u2019ll be slapped with a hefty fine.<\/p>\n

As a foreigner, I\u2019m free to dress as I please throughout the country, as are Chinese-Malaysians and Indian-Malaysians.<\/p>\n

Well, I \u2018m free to wear what I want most<\/em> of the time.\u00a0 Not when camping outside a mosque.\u00a0 There I really ought to cover up, as the Imam in charge politely reminded my husband<\/em> (because, of course, it wouldn\u2019t be proper to speak to a foreign woman directly).<\/p>\n

Believe me, being buried under long trousers, long sleeves and a headscarf in tropical Malaysia is about as fun as jumping fully-clothed into a sauna.\u00a0 I\u2019m definitely biking Iran in the winter.<\/p>\n

\"Malaysian<\/p>\n

\n

\"camping
Not my favorite camping spot, but at least the folks at the mosque in Malaysia were friendly.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Biking along the beach<\/h3>\n

From Kota Bahru we headed south on the quiet coastal road, past deserted beaches and sleepy fishing villages.\u00a0 Few visitors linger in those parts, as most touriosts are more interested in the diving opportunities on islands just off shore.<\/p>\n

Camping prospects improved and we stumbled across some lovely spots near the beach– once on the grounds of a local university, another time at a local high school \u00a0and even once in the front yard of somebody\u2019s holiday bungalow.\u00a0 Our favorite spot was on the lush grounds of an agricultural research station.<\/p>\n

Few cyclists do much camping in Southeast Asia, but I have to say I\u2019m happy with our choice to pitch the tent as often as possible.\u00a0 In spite of the mosquitoes, evenings in the tropics camped out under the swirling stars with the sound of the waves crashing in the distance is pure bliss.\u00a0 Much more romantic than being cooped up in a stuffy guesthouse with a noisy fan whirling overhead.<\/p>\n

\"bicycle<\/p>\n

\"cycling<\/p>\n

\n

\"\"
A beautiful beach just across the road. We arrived near sunset, asked the owner of the house if we could camp and 10 minutes later we were all settled in. The roof was great, since rains are not uncommon this time of year.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As we approached Singapore, the roads became busier and the scenery less wild.\u00a0 Massive palm oil plantations lined the highway and drivers sped south in a fury.\u00a0 Soon mammoth shopping malls, condo developments and golf courses started springing up.<\/p>\n

The idyllic side of Malaysia disappeared and with it our streak of problem-free cycling.\u00a0 First one flat and then another.\u00a0 On the third puncture of the day (as I lay groaning on the side of the road having just realized that Eric had replaced but 2 of our 4 well-used tires in Bangkok) a car pulls up.<\/p>\n

Rescued, yet again!<\/h3>\n

Well-meaning Stranger hops out, offers help.\u00a0 Foreign Cyclist accepts, realizing his partner has been rendered useless (she appears to have no problem spinning her wheels, he\u2019s noticed, but when it comes to bike repairs she is often struck by sudden back pains, headaches and general malaise.)<\/p>\n

The Stranger is a keen assistant, fetching water and filling up the folding bowl in order to find the tiny hole in the inner-tube.\u00a0 He pumps up the tire with gusto while the Foreign Cyclist takes the opportunity to adjust the brakes.\u00a0 As soon as the bike is fully-loaded and ready to go, The Woman miraculously revives.\u00a0 The Foreigners on Bikes thank The Stranger profusely and ride off into the distance.<\/p>\n

5 kilometers down the road, they spot The Stranger in the distance.\u00a0\u00a0 He is holding two cans of Fen Orange cola high in the air!\u00a0 The sun is at its highest arc and they are grateful.\u00a0 A photo is snapped to commemorate the kindness and then The Foreigners on Bikes cycle off to Singapore.<\/p>\n

\n

\"\"
Random Act of Kindness #2,434<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"Eric<\/p>\n

Get in touch at worldbiking@gmail.com<\/p>\n

Let us know what you think of the site or share your own bicycle touring\u00a0experiences\u00a0in Southeast Asia by leaving us a comment below.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Eric stepped out of the small supermarket scowling. \u201cThey don\u2019t take Thai Baht.\u201d Pretty normal, I decided, since we are, after all, in Malaysia. Normal, but annoying, since all we had was Thai Baht.\u00a0 And a stash of US dollars,<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3533,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[144,49],"tags":[78],"yoast_head":"\nMalaysia Mix: ATM Annoyances, advice from the imam and more - Worldbiking.info<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2012\/04\/bicycle-touring-malaysia\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Malaysia Mix: ATM Annoyances, advice from the imam and more - Worldbiking.info\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Eric stepped out of the small supermarket scowling. \u201cThey don\u2019t take Thai Baht.\u201d Pretty normal, I decided, since we are, after all, in Malaysia. 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