{"id":3287,"date":"2012-02-23T11:01:18","date_gmt":"2012-02-23T03:01:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=3287"},"modified":"2019-12-29T02:39:34","modified_gmt":"2019-12-29T07:39:34","slug":"slumbering-with-buddha-and-a-big-breakdown","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2012\/02\/slumbering-with-buddha-and-a-big-breakdown\/","title":{"rendered":"Slumbering with Buddha and a Big Breakdown"},"content":{"rendered":"

The monks invited us in without a moment\u2019s hesitation.\u00a0 Their temple was a simple one, but we were welcome to spend the night.<\/p>\n

I imagined we\u2019d be shown a suitable spot out back, but no, a gentle-faced man in a flowing safron robe motioned for us to enter the place of worship and offered us a prime camp spot for the night:\u00a0 directly across from the sparkling Buddha.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

I knew enough to deposit my smelly sneakers outside before climbing up to enter the temple, but beyond that I was a bit shaky on protocol. \u00a0\u00a0While I was pretty sure firing up the MSR under the Buddha\u2019s benevolent watch \u00a0wouldn\u2019t go over too well, I wasn\u2019t sure if it was uncouth for a woman to strike up a conversation with the holy men.<\/p>\n

Questions and Answers<\/h4>\n

And what about a trip to the toilet?\u00a0 Where was the hot shower?<\/p>\n

Things sorted themselves out soon enough.<\/p>\n

Cooking:\u00a0 OK on the temple steps.<\/p>\n

Conversation:\u00a0 Not an issue, nobody speaks a word of English anyway.<\/p>\n

Toilet:\u00a0 Under construction, if nature calls find a secluded spot in the forest out back.<\/p>\n

Hot Shower:\u00a0 Are you serious?\u00a0\u00a0 There\u2019s not even running water.\u00a0 Discretely douse yourself with the water found in the cisterns, don\u2019t let any flesh show and pretend the monks are invisible when the go about their daily ablutions.<\/p>\n

\n

\"\"
A combo kitchen and bathroom, minus one essential: running water<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Temple rhythms<\/h4>\n

A low, melodic rumbling fills the air as the monks begin their evening chant.\u00a0\u00a0 We\u2019re busy scrubbing vegetables, slicing and dicing for a lovely concoction of coconut curry.\u00a0 Experience has taught us that self-catering is the way to go in much of rural Laos.<\/p>\n

Dinner is done, the dishes given a salutary rinse at the cistern and I crawl into the tent to rest and revel in the silence.\u00a0 The peace lasts for all of two minutes.<\/p>\n

Monks just wanna have fun<\/h4>\n

Chinese soap operas begin blasting out of nowhere.\u00a0 I poke my head out of the tent and glance around.\u00a0 The monks are gathered up on the dais next to Buddha, their eyes glued to a TV that has sprouted incongruously in the corner.<\/p>\n

Watching tele-dramas strikes me as very un-monk-like, sacrilegious even, but mostly just annoying.\u00a0 Shouldn\u2019t these guys be hitting the sack early so they can wake at daybreak to beg for alms?\u00a0 I thought that was the Southeast Asian tradition.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Well, I certainly can\u2019t fault these guys for sleeping in.<\/p>\n

The wake-up gong went off not at 5AM, not at 4AM but at three-oh-five in the morning<\/strong>.\u00a0 Meaning between the sex and intrigue of the soaps, and the chanting and prayers of the oh-so-early morning ritual, there were just 4 hours and 5 minutes available for sleep.<\/p>\n

And a lot less for me, since around midnight I was overcome by cramps and nausea warranting a trip out back into the forest.\u00a0 Which was scary, by the way, in the dead of night.<\/p>\n

Happy in spite of it all<\/h4>\n

In the morning, my sleep-deprivation induced grumpiness was tempered by the cheerfulness of the monks.\u00a0 They were so happy, it seemed, laughing and chattering as they smoked cigarettes (another shocker) and swept out the temple with their homemade brooms.\u00a0 They weren\u2019t bothered by the lack of running water or basic sanitation.<\/p>\n

After several rejuvenating cups of Nescafe, we were sent off with big smiles and waves and a lot of gesturing which I took to mean we were welcome back anytime.\u00a0 Just one more example of the unexpected kindness of strangers.<\/p>\n

\"\"
We pitched the tent right up there under the roof to the left of the stairs.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\n

The final verdict<\/h4>\n

That was just our second Camping-at-a-Buddhist-Temple experience.\u00a0 The first was in Taiwan, where we were kept awake all night as a crew of devotees prepared for a festival the following day.<\/p>\n

I\u2019ll give temples one more try, but so far they rank dead last on my list of preferred places to sleep when stranded<\/a> in the middle of no-where.\u00a0 The people are wonderful, but the places are just too noisy.<\/p>\n

\n

\"\"
A shot of the road just moments after we took off from the temple, there was a surprising chill in the air. Mekong micro-climate, perhaps.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\"<\/h4>\n

A failure and two types of flat<\/h4>\n

Southern Laos is surprisingly flat.\u00a0 Delightfully lacking in climbs that cause your calves to burn and your thighs to throb.<\/p>\n

Flat, and thankfully so, because Eric was stuck single-speeding it all the way to Savannahket.\u00a0 Mechanical failure is an unavoidable feature of long-distance bike touring, and this time it was the derailleur hanger that threatened to side-track our cycling.<\/p>\n

Snapped in two, and completely useless.\u00a0 Twitter crowd-sourcing brought forth suggestions to try welding it back to together (too delicate), check out Top Cycle in Vientainne(helpful folks, but they can\u2019t solve our problem) and shortening the chain and single-speeding it.<\/p>\n

That\u2019s what we (well, OK, you got me again\u2026Eric<\/em>) did.\u00a0 And it worked, for the most part.\u00a0 He did have to push on a few steeper sections, but all in all the Koga (and\u00a0 my dear, long-suffering husband) performed admirably well.<\/p>\n

\n

\"\"
Riding along the Mekong is hot and dusty at times, but still a whole lot of fun.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

A bigger problem than the lack of gear range was our fast mounting tally of flats.\u00a0 Three, four and five stops a day to repair punctures.\u00a0 While we\u2019re still not sure where the problem lies (the tires haven\u2019t racked up that<\/em> many kilometers) we do know that flat fixing under the piercing afternoon sun on a dusty road is about as fun as shoveling snow in a Montana blizzard.<\/p>\n

Our heroes at Koga have already shipped a replacement part to Thailand, and we should be able to pick it up in a couple of days.\u00a0 Reliable support means a lot in these kinds of sticky situations.\u00a0 Thanks Koga!<\/p>\n

In spite of the bike-related bothers, the riding was lovely.\u00a0 The south is a place of flooded rice paddies, tidy plots of vegetables, and landscapes bursting with color.\u00a0 We balzed\u00a0 into Savannakhet<\/a> just as a swirl of fiery oranges and reds was lighting up the sky over the Mekong.\u00a0 Even with the breakdowns, minor irritations and frustrations, not much beats bicycle touring.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\n

\n

Join us on Facebook<\/a> for the latest news.<\/p>\n

Let us know what’s on your mind in the comments section below.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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I imagined we\u2019d be shown a suitable spot out back, but no, a gentle-faced man in a<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3295,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[115,126,49],"tags":[78],"yoast_head":"\nSlumbering with Buddha and a Big Breakdown - Worldbiking.info<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2012\/02\/slumbering-with-buddha-and-a-big-breakdown\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Slumbering with Buddha and a Big Breakdown - Worldbiking.info\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"The monks invited us in without a moment\u2019s hesitation.\u00a0 Their temple was a simple one, but we were welcome to spend the night. 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