{"id":3020,"date":"2012-01-09T12:25:00","date_gmt":"2012-01-09T04:25:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=3020"},"modified":"2019-12-28T15:28:13","modified_gmt":"2019-12-28T20:28:13","slug":"honey-i-think-i-lost-my-passport-an-inauspicious-start-to-2012","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2012\/01\/honey-i-think-i-lost-my-passport-an-inauspicious-start-to-2012\/","title":{"rendered":"Honey I think I lost my passport: an inauspicious start to 2012"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u201cWhat?\u00a0 You\u2019ve lost your passport?\u201d I shout, mouth gaping in disbelief.<\/p>\n

The year was off to a highly inauspicious start.\u00a0 It wasn\u2019t even noon on January 1st<\/sup> 2012 and we\u2019d already witnessed a serious accident involving a semi and a now very<\/em> compact car plus a minor crash between a car and a motorbike.<\/p>\n

\n

High Alert<\/h3>\n

China\u2019s Highway 209 heading south towards Vietnam was turning into two narrow lanes of terror.\u00a0 Trucks overloaded with sugar cane rumbled along while motorbikes and scooters raced by, weaving in and out dangerously.\u00a0 Impatient drivers of Hondas and Fords attempted to overtake slower moving vehicles on blind curves and hills, apparently oblivious to the risks.\u00a0 The traffic pumped past in a steady stream and we rode in a state of high alert, ready for a villager guiding a water buffalo \u00a0to dart out into the road or a reckless driver passing on the right to come careening head on into our path.<\/p>\n

\n

\"\"<\/a>
Water buffalo are OK on the back roads but I’d rather they steer clear of the major highways.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It was hard to square these tense road conditions with the beauty and tranquility of our rides\u2014just a few days back\u2014around Yangshuo.<\/p>\n

Cyclist\u2019s Delight<\/h3>\n

Yangshuo is China\u2019s number one backpacker tourist spot.\u00a0 The striking karst landscapes of the region are renowned throughout China. The surrounding countryside is filled with narrow tracks and riverside trails making it a veritable paradise for cycling.\u00a0 The limestone peaks, farming villages and the gently flowing Yulong River make for almost perfect riding.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\n

\"\"<\/a>
Eric bikes past the beautiful limestone peaks during a day ride in Yangshuo County.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

The exact opposite of the hellish conditions facing us \u00a0New Year\u2019s Day on Highway 209.<\/p>\n

And to top that off, Eric can\u2019t find his passport.<\/p>\n

This is serious.\u00a0 No passport means we\u2019re stuck in China.\u00a0 Would he have to bus it to the French Embassy in Beijing to get a new one?\u00a0 How could he get out of China and into neighboring Vietnam without a passport?\u00a0 And what about me?\u00a0\u00a0 My visa was expiring in less than a week\u2019s time.\u00a0 Would I have to cycle solo on to Vietnam?\u00a0 China didn\u2019t seem like a country to get tangled up with the authorities by chancing an overstay<\/p>\n

Missing.\u00a0 But where?<\/h3>\n

\u201cHmmn..,\u201d Eric muses, rifling through his bags. \u00a0\u201cI must have left it at the hotel two days back.\u201d<\/p>\n

Things are looking up.<\/p>\n

\u201cYeah, that must be it.\u00a0 I remember giving it to the desk clerk so she could register us.\u201d<\/p>\n

A bureaucratic bent<\/span><\/h3>\n

In theory, foreigners are supposed to register with the police each time they check into a hotel.\u00a0 In practice, most hotels (at least the cheap ones we check into) ignore this rule.\u00a0 Probably because they don\u2019t want to pay taxes or risk their own encounters with authorities.<\/p>\n

The hotel staff in the town of Hung Mao were an exception.\u00a0 The lady behind the desk was a stickler for rules and she wanted to copy down all the passport details and register us in proper bureaucratic fashion.\u00a0 Hence the forgotten passport.<\/p>\n

That was two days back.<\/p>\n

Problem solving mission<\/h3>\n

Now it was time to gear up into crisis mode.\u00a0 Tracking down the missing passport would be our first challenge of the new year.<\/p>\n

We raced back to the last town we\u2019d passed, checked into a hotel (no passport required as was the usual case), and Eric set off to catch a bus back to Hung Mao in search of his passport.<\/p>\n

For the first time in almost six years on the road, I truly regretted not having a mobile phone.\u00a0 Eric had promised to return before dark, but would if he didn\u2019t?<\/p>\n

A dark day<\/h3>\n

The entire day I sit stewing in the hotel room.\u00a0 Had there been an accident?\u00a0\u00a0 Maybe there\u2019d been a squabble with the police and they\u2019d put Eric behind bars.\u00a0 Perhaps he\u2019d hitchhiked (although I made him promise he wouldn\u2019t) and some psychopath had picked him up.<\/p>\n

6 PM and night falls without Eric\u2019s return.\u00a0 Now 7:00 and still no Eric.\u00a0 Should I go to the police? Communicating the problem would certainly be complicated.<\/p>\n

Maybe try to find an internet caf\u00e9 and see if Eric has left a message.\u00a0 Even that would pose problems since the authorities introduced a new regulation requiring users to present a Chinese-issued ID or residence card before using public internet.\u00a0 The latest step in the Communist party\u2019s quest to crackdown on organized opposition.\u00a0 Maybe I could convince somebody to let me use the internet even though I couldn\u2019t provide the proper documents.<\/p>\n

Nothing was ever easy in China.<\/p>\n

Where, oh where could he possibly be<\/h3>\n

Now it was 8 PM and I was seriously worried.\u00a0 Hung Mao was less than 150 kilometers away.\u00a0 Surely it couldn\u2019t take so long to get there, track down the passport and return.\u00a0 Damn, if only we each had a mobile phone.<\/p>\n

At 8:30 there\u2019s a knock at the door.\u00a0 I open up.\u00a0 The front desk girl is pantomiming a telephone call.<\/p>\n

I race to the lobby, thankful, we\u2019d had the foresight to note the hotel\u2019s phone number.<\/p>\n

Eric is on the line.<\/p>\n

\u201cI\u2019m at the police station.\u201d<\/p>\n

What?\u00a0 They had<\/em> locked him up.\u00a0 Oh, my god.<\/p>\n

\u201cNo, No,\u201d he assures me.\u00a0 \u201cEverything\u2019s OK.\u00a0 I got the passport.\u201d<\/p>\n

Whew.<\/p>\n

\u201cBut what are you doing at the police station?\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s a long story.\u00a0 But basically there aren\u2019t any more buses tonight.\u00a0 I\u2019ll spend the night here and see you in the morning.\u201d<\/p>\n

My husband\u2019s spending the night at a Chinese jail.\u00a0 And I\u2019m relieved.<\/p>\n

One thing is clear, New Year\u2019s Day 2012, won\u2019t be one to fade fast from memory.<\/p>\n

Total Kilometers Cycled: 104,230<\/p>\n

Rough Route: Yangshuo> Xiang Zhou> Wuxuan> Ling Shan> Fang Cheng> Dong Xing> Mong Cai (border with Vietnam) >Halong >Cat Ba Island<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u201cWhat?\u00a0 You\u2019ve lost your passport?\u201d I shout, mouth gaping in disbelief. The year was off to a highly inauspicious start.\u00a0 It wasn\u2019t even noon on January 1st 2012 and we\u2019d already witnessed a serious accident involving a semi and a<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3037,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[95,49],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\nHoney I think I lost my passport: an inauspicious start to 2012 - Worldbiking.info<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2012\/01\/honey-i-think-i-lost-my-passport-an-inauspicious-start-to-2012\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Honey I think I lost my passport: an inauspicious start to 2012 - Worldbiking.info\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"\u201cWhat?\u00a0 You\u2019ve lost your passport?\u201d I shout, mouth gaping in disbelief. 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