{"id":281,"date":"2010-11-22T23:54:47","date_gmt":"2010-11-22T22:54:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=281"},"modified":"2013-03-20T00:35:34","modified_gmt":"2013-03-19T23:35:34","slug":"biking-patagonia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2010\/11\/biking-patagonia\/","title":{"rendered":"Pedaling to the end of the world"},"content":{"rendered":"

Patagonia at last!\u00a0 Gone are the rolling hills and pine trees, the small towns with their delicious factura<\/em>-filled bakeries and quiet parks.\u00a0\u00a0 Patagonia is a windswept land of wide-open spaces, hardy sheep and long, lonely roads.\u00a0\u00a0 The glaciers and lakes and natural beauty for which Patagonia is so famous lie far to the west, shoved up against the Andes.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_7574-amaya-pines\"<\/a>
No more pine trees for a very long time.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\n

We\u2019re winding our way down Ruta 3, Argentina\u2019s coastal route to Ushuaia.\u00a0 This–far less famous–part of Patagonia is a virtual desert.\u00a0 Roads signs warn of sand spreading across the highway and reduced visibility due to all the gunk being stirred up by the ever-present winds.<\/p>\n

\"Caution:<\/a>
Caution: Windy days Sand on the Road<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\n

Riding is tough.\u00a0 The winds are seldom on our side.\u00a0 Huge trucks rumble by, blasting us off the road.<\/p>\n

Settlements are few.\u00a0 When Argentines say there\u2019s nothing out there<\/em>, it\u2019s best to take them for their word.<\/p>\n

The barren plain stretches on, unbroken, as far as the eye can see.\u00a0 Not even a lonely ranch house or a hopeful water tower dot the horizon.\u00a0\u00a0 Nothing but scrubland.\u00a0 Even the sheep have deserted some harsh stretches of Patagonia.<\/p>\n

Riding Ruta 3 through Patagonia requires as much determination as taking on the lonely stretch of the Sahara that runs through western Egypt.\u00a0 More determination, perhaps, since Ruta 3 rarely rewards you with landscape that can be described as anything but bleak.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_7868-ruta3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Patagonia officially begins as soon as you cross the Rio Colorado, some 700 kilometers south of Buenos Aires.<\/p>\n

I swear it was as though somebody switched on a high-powered hair dryer as soon as we passed the Welcome to Patagonia road sign.\u00a0 We got blasted.\u00a0 Sometimes from the south, at times from the east, but usually from the west and never from the north.<\/p>\n

Just 120 of riding southwards we arrive –exhausted, grumbling and grouchy–at the coastal town of Carmen de Patagones.<\/p>\n

We don\u2019t deserve this wind, I whine.\u00a0 I hate Patagonia!<\/p>\n

\"IMG_7877-startpatagonia\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Two days at the home of super-awesome, incredibly kind couchsurfers Betty and Sergio, and we\u2019re back smiling and ready to take on all the force of the Patagonian winds.<\/p>\n

Unfortunately, the positive couchsurfing vibes don\u2019t last long.\u00a0 We say our goodbyes to Betty and Sergio and set off early, knowing there are vast distances to cover.\u00a0 Soon we are dispirited, running low on water and in need of rest.\u00a0 We struggle on and on against a vengeful wind until late in the afternoon, hoping for signs of life.<\/p>\n

Our average speed is down to a miserable 9.2 kilometers per hour.\u00a0 There is no hope of reaching San Antonio, still more than 80 kilometers away, before nightfall.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_7919-eric-valdes\"<\/a>
All the bags are back at camp during a day ride on the Valdes Peninsula.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\n

\"IMG_7932-amaya-valdes\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"IMG_7935-2amaya-valdes-cycling\"<\/a>
Valdes Peninsula: a fine place for a ride if you don't mind the odd sandstorm.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\n

Finally, we resort to flagging down motorists.\u00a0 Is there a ranch ahead?\u00a0 A small settlement perhaps?<\/em> The response is always the same.\u00a0 No, sorry, nothing out here.<\/em> Then the friendly Argentines offer us some water, wish us luck and screech off into the fading light.<\/p>\n

Surprisingly, this does not drive me into despair.\u00a0 Camping by the road is always an option.\u00a0 Of course, on this desolate stretch of the planet there\u2019s no possibility of hiding the tent, but Patagonia is safe enough.\u00a0 The kind motorists have offered us water and we\u2019ve stocked up some 3 liters between us. \u00a0\u00a0The\u00a0 wind gusts up ferociously now and again, but not enough to tear up the tent if we tie it down tight.<\/p>\n

I\u2019ve almost resigned myself now to a night on the lonely pampa. It won\u2019t be too bad, I reason.\u00a0 We can huddle together in the tent, break open our reserve can of tuna and feast on that.\u00a0 By morning perhaps the wind will have died down enough so that we can fire up the stove for a cup of coffee.<\/p>\n

\n

My plans are foiled.<\/p>\n

But then an old flatbed truck pulls off to the side of the road some 150 meters ahead.\u00a0 As we pedal up, the driver leans out the window and offers us a ride.\u00a0 Eric shoots me a glance, I nod, and that\u2019s it– we succumb to temptation.<\/p>\n

With the bikes strapped down, I wedge myself up against some large piece of machinery, hold on tight and pray we won\u2019t hit any bumps.\u00a0 This is not the safest mode of travel.<\/p>\n

We fly down at the road, past all the nothingness that would have taken the better part of a day to conqueror on a bike.\u00a0 I gaze up at the stars that are slowly starting to punctuate the sky and consider the lift.<\/em><\/p>\n

Taking a lift<\/em> is hardly such a serious transgression as to merit hours of deep contemplation.\u00a0 But a part of me feels deeply disappointed in my weakness.\u00a0 Try as I may to justify taking the easy way out, I can find no good reason for hopping on a truck.\u00a0 There was no imminent danger of running out of food or water.\u00a0 The road was in perfect condition.\u00a0 The wind was hardly the fiercest we\u2019d encountered.<\/p>\n

\"Feels<\/a>
Feels just like the Sahara.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\n

But still I fret.\u00a0 My great fear is that taking a lift<\/em> is some sort of gateway drug.<\/p>\n

Just as an occasional marijuana user might end up as a crack head, I fear taking an occasional lift may lead to ditching the bike and signing on for a 14 day all-inclusive whirlwind bus tour of South America.<\/p>\n

And that would be a catastrophe.\u00a0 I don\u2019t ever want to end up clipping on a name badge and scurrying behind\u00a0 some cheerful tour guide in a floppy hat as she leads me and 30 other \u2018adventure tourists\u2019 around Machu Pichu.\u00a0 That\u2019s not for me.\u00a0 \u00a0I\u2019d rather be holed up in a cubicle with my eyes glazed over, staring at a computer screen.<\/p>\n

But, I have to face the truth.\u00a0 I no longer find pleasure in suffering.\u00a0 That jolt of enjoyment once triggered by a strong dose of pain and distress vanished somewhere south of the equator.<\/p>\n

I can barely conjure up the psychological fortitude to continue pedaling through barren and boring landscapes.\u00a0 Finding that last ounce of willpower is like scraping the bottom of the jar for the last teaspoon of jam.<\/p>\n

\"We're<\/a>
Ruta 3--long stretches of nothingness. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\n

In early 2008, we took six months off from serious riding and puttered around India.\u00a0 I returned to Africa revitalized and raring to go for the ride north to Egypt.\u00a0 That kind of rest is exactly what I\u2019m in need of now.<\/p>\n

Unfortunately, the far tip of Patagonia is almost as far south as Antarctica, and can be visited comfortably just 3 or 4 months of the year.\u00a0 Now\u2019s our chance to reach the southernmost city in the world and we don\u2019t want to blow it.<\/p>\n

So here\u2019s the plan.\u00a0 A little bit of motorized help during the next desolate 2,000 kilometers stretch to Ushuaia.\u00a0 That will save our sanity and ensure we don\u2019t give up all together and jump on a plane to Delhi.<\/p>\n

Once we reach Ushuaia (and all the stunning landscapes that make you actually want to be on a bike) we\u2019ll make our way slowly north through the Andes to Bolivia.\u00a0 Then it\u2019ll be time for a well-deserved break.<\/p>\n

Long live lifts!\u00a0 Down with lifts!\u00a0 I say make the most out of every minute of life, lift or no lift.<\/p>\n

Total Kilometers:<\/span> 86,406<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Days on the Road<\/strong>:<\/strong> 1,630<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Patagonia at last!\u00a0 Gone are the rolling hills and pine trees, the small towns with their delicious factura-filled bakeries and quiet parks.\u00a0\u00a0 Patagonia is a windswept land of wide-open spaces, hardy sheep and long, lonely roads.\u00a0\u00a0 The glaciers and lakes<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[16,28,12,49],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\nPedaling to the end of the world - Worldbiking.info<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2010\/11\/biking-patagonia\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Pedaling to the end of the world - 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