{"id":1870,"date":"2011-07-23T11:56:17","date_gmt":"2011-07-23T14:56:17","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=1870"},"modified":"2011-08-13T18:10:26","modified_gmt":"2011-08-13T21:10:26","slug":"biking-western-canada","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2011\/07\/biking-western-canada\/","title":{"rendered":"Bears and an itsy-bitsy bump in the road"},"content":{"rendered":"

Back in Bolivia we hit a big bump in the road.\u00a0 It sent us into a spin.<\/p>\n

Two months off the bikes re-grouping and now we\u2019re back on the road full of energy and enthusiasm for the Alaska leg of our round the world journey.<\/p>\n

Problem is we just rammed into one more annoying obstacle. Another bump in the road.\u00a0 An itsy-bitsy one this time, but a bump nevertheless.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Country 79! Canada.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

One thing leads to another<\/h3>\n

Our problem began with bears.<\/p>\n

I\u2019ve always had something of an obsession with bears.\u00a0 As a kid, there was nothing on earth I loved better than my loyal Teddy.\u00a0 In fact, Teddy (a spry 41 today) still occupies a position of honor in the family home back in Montana.<\/p>\n

Bears that scare<\/h3>\n

But as an adult traveling the world on a slow-moving getaway vehicle, my bear obsession is now focused not on the snuggly stuffed type, but those 500+ pound creatures that roam the great expanses of North America.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Don't mess with the Griz!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Real live bears–grizzlies in particular–, the ones with ferocious growls, massive jaws, the ability to charge at 30 MPH and maul humans in a matter of minutes, those bears scare me as much as the thought of spending the rest of my days trapped in a cubicle with two-weeks annual vacation.<\/p>\n

So I\u2019m taking precautions.\u00a0 Reading up on bear facts.\u00a0 \u00a0Searching out advice.<\/p>\n

Turns out about 31,000 grizzlies make their home in Alaska and 21,000 in Western Canada.\u00a0 Granted, maulings are extremely rare.\u00a0 Bears are generally shy and avoid contact with humans, but still, who wants to take a chance and end up as hibernation fodder?<\/p>\n

The scout in me: always be prepared<\/h3>\n

As a line of first defense we\u2019ve armed ourselves with Counter Assault bear deterrent.<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The stuff's no good unless you know how to use it. Training from the Counter Assault staff is essential.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Alright, we\u2019re good to go.\u00a0 Got the bear spray in the handle bar bag.\u00a0 Any irate bears come charging down the highway within 30 feet and they\u2019ll be doused with pepper spray for 7.2 seconds.<\/p>\n

And if those 7.2 seconds of eye irritation don\u2019t do the trick, let\u2019s just hope we\u2019re on a major descent and can out pedal a perturbed grizzly.<\/p>\n

Riding the Divide<\/h3>\n

Day 4 in Canada.\u00a0 All is well.\u00a0 Friendly families have been hosting us, our slightly-out-of-shape legs are proving to be up to the strenuous job of getting us across the Great Divide and the scenery is stunning.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
David, Donna and family..our warmshowers hosts near Fairmont in British Columbia.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Not the first time we've biked over the Continental Divide, but surely the most painful.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Biking Western Canada near Kootenay National Park<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
The great outdoors in Western Canada.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Biking through the Canadian Rockies.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

There are snow-capped mountains, and fast-flowing streams, waterfalls tumbling down into deep ravines, there are cork-screw climbs and fast descents and there are BEARS.\u00a0 Plenty of them we\u2019re told.<\/p>\n

Hungrier than usual since summer has been so long in coming.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Ready to take on the Grizzlies!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Too tired to think straight?<\/h4>\n

By the time we arrive in the tourist mecca of Lake Louise, exhaustion has set in.\u00a0 The campsite is full, and, \u201cso sorry but no there\u2019s absolutely no room to squeeze in a couple of itinerant cyclists.\u201d<\/p>\n

Next campsite is 30 kilometers yonder.\u00a0 \u201cBut,\u201d whispers the understanding guy in the tourist information center, \u201cyou might just pitch up at Herbert Lake, nobody\u2019ll bother you there.\u201d<\/p>\n

Terrific.\u00a0 Apart from the mosquitoes ravaging my body, the setting is idyllic.\u00a0 A beautiful lake surrounded by pristine wilderness in the heart of bear country.<\/em><\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a><\/em>
Who wouldn't want to camp at such a beautiful, peaceful spot?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a><\/em>
Just around the bend from Lake Herbert.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

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\"\"<\/a><\/em>
Those pesky mosquitoes make the trying tasks of fixing a flat even more irritating. Head nets help considerably.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

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Trying to be wise<\/h3>\n

Only those with suicide wishes would pack their food inside the tent for the night.\u00a0 Wise campers, we\u2019ve been told, string their supplies up in a tree, well out of reach from wandering bears.<\/p>\n

And we\u2019re prepared with a length of sturdy rope and some carabineers we\u2019ve been toting along for just such an occasion.<\/p>\n

But wait, these scrawny pine boughs will never support the weight of our panniers!\u00a0 This is not the way things worked out on the YouTube video.<\/p>\n

[vsw id=”qgBLDMuPuvE” source=”youtube” width=”425″ height=”344″ autoplay=”no”]<\/p>\n

A second shot<\/h3>\n

Plan B.\u00a0 The rest area garbage dumpster.\u00a0 Yep, just slip your food supplies in the vestibule behind the big dumpster\u2019s plastic bags and you\u2019re all set.\u00a0 Sounds strange, but several cyclists we met passing the opposite direction assured us this was a great solution to bear worries.<\/p>\n

Unfortunately, this ingenious solution doesn\u2019t work in Banff National Park.\u00a0 Not only are Canadian dumpsters bear-proof, turns out they\u2019re also people-proof.<\/p>\n

The final solution<\/h3>\n

As a last resort we store the panniers with the food and cooking gear (whose residual smells can apparently attract bears) plus the toiletries (can also be mistaken for food) in the public restrooms.<\/p>\n

I scrawl a friendly note explaining the situation (Hi, we\u2019re two cyclists.\u00a0 These are our food supplies.\u00a0 We are protecting them from the bears.\u00a0\u00a0 Please do not disturb.\u00a0 Thanks, Eric and Amaya).<\/p>\n

Later a ranger stops by.<\/p>\n

\u201cYou realize you\u2019re camped illegally.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Breaking the rules. Sometimes you just gotta do it.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cYes, yes, but you see, sir, my wife\u2019s really tired and\u2026\u201d<\/p>\n

With a nod the ranger cuts Eric off.<\/p>\n

\u201cI understand.\u00a0 You cyclists don\u2019t have it easy.\u00a0 Enjoy your evening.\u201d<\/p>\n

And we do.\u00a0 I nod off as soon as my sleeping bag\u2019s zipped up.<\/p>\n

An ever so unpleasant surprise<\/h3>\n

In the morning I trot down to retrieve our gear and WHAT!\u00a0 A bag is missing.\u00a0 One of our beautiful, shiny new Ortlieb panniers.<\/p>\n

Panic.\u00a0 I assume the thief has taken the expensive MSR stove and the lightweight cook set.\u00a0 But no, the evil-doer has made off with our bagels and oatmeal.\u00a0 He\u2019s swiped our precious jar of peanut butter and the big bag of dried craisins.\u00a0 The low-life has pinched the packet of spaghetti and the supply of rice.\u00a0 Why the nerve!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Crime Scene at Herbert Lake.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Not the Canada I know<\/h3>\n

We are in shock.\u00a0 Truly in shock. Robbed in Canada<\/em> of all places.\u00a0 In a National Park.\u00a0 I mean, who\u2019d have thought we\u2019d make it all around Africa without a hitch to get robbed right in my own backyard? My blood is boiling.<\/p>\n

I\u2019ve always tended to trust those who hang out in nature.\u00a0 Good people for the most part, I\u2019ve always believed.<\/p>\n

Not that I normally leave gear lying around.\u00a0 In spite of the hassle, we religiously unload the bicycles each evening and stow our stuff away safely in the tent.\u00a0 As a matter of course, we lock our bikes to the nearest tree.<\/p>\n

Why take risks?<\/h3>\n

But the thought of a hungry bear roaming around after dark sniffing out my peach-flavored oatmeal was enough to make us store our stuff in a public restroom at a little-used rest area.<\/p>\n

Fatigue impaired our decision making and common sense flew out the window.\u00a0 Couldn\u2019t we have left the food in a plastic bag?\u00a0 Why tempt a thief with a set of bright-red panniers?<\/p>\n

Lesson learned<\/h3>\n

Now I\u2019m riding a very lob-sided bike. With all the weight in one front pannier, I feel like I\u2019m going to spin out on descents.<\/p>\n

With our food supplies gone, we spent a few hungry days (albeit less hungry than expected thanks to help from fellow campers) riding the Icefields Parkway.<\/p>\n

And we learned another lesson.\u00a0 The hard<\/em> way.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Biking the Icefields parkway. Possibly the prettiest road in Canada. A little less fun to cycle when your stomach is growling.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Back in Bolivia we hit a big bump in the road.\u00a0 It sent us into a spin. Two months off the bikes re-grouping and now we\u2019re back on the road full of energy and enthusiasm for the Alaska leg of<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2073,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[86,49],"tags":[87,77],"yoast_head":"\nBears and an itsy-bitsy bump in the road - Worldbiking.info<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2011\/07\/biking-western-canada\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Bears and an itsy-bitsy bump in the road - Worldbiking.info\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Back in Bolivia we hit a big bump in the road.\u00a0 It sent us into a spin. 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