{"id":16,"date":"2010-09-24T21:11:44","date_gmt":"2010-09-25T00:11:44","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/?p=16"},"modified":"2011-03-03T22:24:07","modified_gmt":"2011-03-04T01:24:07","slug":"cycling-bolivia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2010\/09\/cycling-bolivia\/","title":{"rendered":"Cycling Bolivia–nothing beats the bike"},"content":{"rendered":"
\u00a0 <\/p>\n
\n
\"A<\/dt>\n
A last look at brazil..beautiful camping and cycling<\/dd>\n<\/dl>\n<\/div>\n

\u00a0Stephen Spender<\/p>\n

\u201cTravel is an art which has to be created by the traveler.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\u00a0Total distance cycled:<\/strong>\u00a0<\/span> 83,399 kilometers\u00a0 (52,452 miles)<\/p>\n

\u00a0Current Location:<\/strong>\u00a0<\/span> Asuncion, Paraguay<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/p>\n

\u00a0Biking the Chaco embodies all that I despair of in bicycle touring. \u00a0It\u2019s remote, life is unpredictable, there\u2019s a Wild West feel to this desolate patch of scrubland.\u00a0 There\u2019s no food, no comforts, no medical help.\u00a0 Jaguars hide in the hinterland.<\/p>\n

The Chaco attracts intrepid adventurers who thrive on uncertainty.\u00a0<\/p>\n

How\u2019d we end up there?\u00a0 Careless planning.<\/p>\n

I liked the ring of \u2018The Chaco.\u2019\u00a0 It sounded romantic.\u00a0 I was vaguely aware of a land of vast open spaces and stunning bird life.\u00a0 I imagined quiet roads and quaint villages.\u00a0<\/p>\n

What I got was a rough track and a largely uninhabited wasteland.\u00a0 To be fair, I\u2019m sure the Chaco is quite beautiful when it\u2019s not burning.\u00a0 Unfortunately, we showed up just when the Bolivian government had declared a state of emergency due to the uncontrolled fires sweeping the region. 3.7 million acres destroyed, declared the headlines.<\/p>\n

\u00a0Cattle ranches up in flames.\u00a0 Livestock lost.\u00a0 People suffering cardiac problems caused by all the smoke inhalation.<\/p>\n

Not the ideal spot for a bicycle tour.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

We bungled Bolivia right from the start.\u00a0 First, we got all tangled up in the border crossing from Brazil.\u00a0 After 4 years on the road and some 200 accumulated border crossings behind us, you\u2019d think we\u2019d get it right.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"IMG_7204_road_bolivia\"
Feels like the ride through the Chaco will never end.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

But no.\u00a0 We\u2019re getting sloppy.\u00a0 For some odd reason, we assumed the passport stamping process would take place at a little office located at the actual border.\u00a0 This having been the case in 99% of all other borders we\u2019ve encountered.\u00a0 Not so between Brazil and Bolivia.\u00a0 You\u2019ve got to check out with the Brazilian authorities in the town of Caseres, some 100 kilometers before you reach the Bolivian immigration authorities in San Matias.\u00a0 Who\u2019d have figured?<\/p>\n

You can wander freely between the two countries.\u00a0 But\u00a0when you show in San Matias, on the Bolivian side, track down the Office of Immigration and ask for an entry stamp, you\u2019ll be directed all the way back to Brazil.\u00a0 Sorry amigo, no exit stamp, no entry stamp.\u00a0 Simple as that.<\/p>\n

Don\u2019t bother trying to be clever by sending one person pedaling that 200 kilometer round trip journey back to Brazil\u00a0 to get the passports in order.\u00a0 The Brazilians are sticklers for details and one live body showing up with two passports just won\u2019t do.<\/p>\n

Alas, another trip back to Brazil (BOTH of us) and finally we are blessed with the coveted exit stamps.\u00a0 The Bolivians stamp us in, and voila, we\u2019re legal.<\/p>\n

Sometimes it pays to READ the guidebook.\u00a0<\/p>\n

So that\u2019s what happens when you think you know the ropes and get sloppy with your planning. Three days wasted just trying to get the proper stamps in the passport.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Biking Bolivia is off to a really bad start.\u00a0 And the thing is, bad \u2018luck\u2019 likes company. So there we are bouncing along another dusty track, keeping an eye out for jaguars.\u00a0 And bandits.\u00a0 Seems this little corner of eastern Bolivia is known as a \u2018Zona Roja.\u2019\u00a0 Prime drug smuggling territory.\u00a0 And whatever else comes with that.\u00a0<\/p>\n

We\u2019re relieved to reach the first little village, Las Petas, some 90 kilometers from San Matias.\u00a0 We ask around about camping at the police station.\u00a0 A weathered old cowboy informs us that outside of\u00a0 San Matias there are no police in the entire province.\u00a0 \u201cGot chased away,\u201d he chuckles.\u00a0 \u201cWe settle things ourselves these days.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cBut what about the military.\u00a0 Don\u2019t they keep order?\u201d\u00a0 The man looks at me like I\u2019ve got the brains of a llama.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe military? Humph.\u00a0 The get a cut from the smugglers.\u201d\u00a0 I get the picture.<\/p>\n

We\u2019re taken in by the local medico<\/em>.\u00a0 He\u2019s struggling to keep the small health center afloat and it\u2019s not easy.\u00a0 There\u2019s no electricity, no running water and his equipment amounts to a stethoscope and a rusting scale.<\/p>\n

The following day we set off before dawn and it\u2019s not long before a pickup pulls over in a cloud of dust and an old rancher shouts out, \u201cRemember me?\u201d<\/p>\n

I do.\u00a0 It\u2019s the guy who gave us the lowdown on the police and military.<\/p>\n

\u201cWant a ride?\u201d<\/p>\n

I\u00a0 do.\u00a0 The Chaco, due to all the advancing fires, is veiled in a thick cloud of dust and smoke.\u00a0 I\u2019m having coughing fits like a patient in a TB sanatorium.\u00a0 The landscape reminds me of the bleak shots in the apocalyptic film \u2018The Road.\u2019\u00a0 I, too, feel like the world is coming to an end.<\/p>\n

I want a ride.\u00a0 And I take one.\u00a0 A guilt free ride in the back of a pickup that shaves a whole day of suffering off our ride to Concepcion (where the tar road takes over!).\u00a0 I miss out on cycling a bumpy road\u00a0 through dreary countryside.\u00a0 I don\u2019t get to anguish over depleting food supplies.\u00a0 I don\u2019t have to wonder where we\u2019ll next be able to fill up on water.\u00a0 And I don\u2019t squander precious time doing something I don\u2019t want to be doing.\u00a0 Namely cycling the Chaco while it burns.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"IMG_7215-Burnt-Sign\"
Bolivia is burning.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

This realization is one of the greatest epiphanies of the trip.\u00a0 We are all free to do exactly what we want to do.\u00a0 There is no cycling taskmaster forcing me to bike a 100 kilometers daily.\u00a0 No Bicycle\u00a0 Touring Overlord<\/em> who will punish me for taking the easy way out now and again.<\/p>\n

You\u2019d think I\u2019d have figured that out long ago.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Yet I\u2019ve spent a good part of the last four years trying to live up to some arbitrary standard of cycling adventure.\u00a0 I believed that hitching a ride on the back of the truck was only for wussies and wimps.\u00a0 Weaklings.\u00a0 Cyclists without stamina or drive.\u00a0 Rides were for those lacking the determination to see things through.\u00a0 People who can\u2019t stare down boredom and pain and suffering. Real cyclists never take lifts.\u00a0 NEVER.<\/p>\n

Or so goes the myth.\u00a0 I like to think I\u2019m a real cyclist.\u00a0 A real cyclist who takes lifts now and then.\u00a0 And doesn\u2019t regret it.\u00a0<\/p>\n

So with a little hitchhiking help we tackled the rough 400 kilometers of dusty track in two days and a half.\u00a0 Bouncing around in the back of a truck with a crazed driver at the wheel is not all that fun, so there\u2019s much of a chance that we\u2019ll make hitchhiking a regular thing.\u00a0 All in all, nothing beats biking.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00a0 A last look at brazil..beautiful camping and cycling \u00a0Stephen Spender \u201cTravel is an art which has to be created by the traveler.\u201d \u00a0Total distance cycled:\u00a0 83,399 kilometers\u00a0 (52,452 miles) \u00a0Current Location:\u00a0 Asuncion, Paraguay \u00a0 \u00a0Biking the Chaco embodies all<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[10,12],"tags":[258,13,11],"yoast_head":"\nCycling Bolivia-nothing beats the bike - Worldbiking.info<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"http:\/\/www.worldbiking.info\/wordpress\/2010\/09\/cycling-bolivia\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Cycling Bolivia-nothing beats the bike - 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